Two Question's about box pleated

[SmarxCharleston]

1) My waist in actual measurement's
Is around 32
And my Hip
39
If I were to make or commission a box-pleated kilt at some point, which length of a tartan should I order? Somewhere between 3.5 yards to 4.5?
I realize it doesn't make a huge difference, but in cost it does.
Any guesstimate's at a safe length?

2) People have said the tartan kilt look's poorly at the supposed jean waist, but in trying on kilt's at a local shop, I have found that I really do not like wearing them at the natural waist. I just can't relax in it with my breathing. Highly expansive stomach.
Is there any kilt-maker's that would and possibly has experience in doing a box pleated kilt at the jean waist?

Thank's for your help

[The Wizard of BC]

OK, in answer to your first question.

If you want a full width apron appearance to your kilt -
There are two overlapping aprons in the front. These take up an amount of fabric approx. equal to 1/2 your hip circumferance. In your case 19.5" each or 39" total.
The pleats of a box pleated kilt consist of three layers of fabric and the pleated area is also approx. equal to 1/2 your hip circumferance. In your case 19/5" X 3 = 58.5".
Add these two together - 39" + 58.5" = 97.5".
Now add a small amount for the facings, deep and reverse pleats. In your case approx. 20" to 30".
Total length of fabric used would be about 100" or 2 3/4 yards.
As fabric is usually purchased double-width you would need to buy 1.3 - 2 yards of double-width fabric.

As much depends on the size of the Sett pattern of the Tartan you choose, most kilt makers order 2 yards of double-width fabric to make a box pleated kilt.

Now, to your second question.

I have, and do make, box-pleated kilts in solid and Tartan fabrics all the time. I also allow the customer to tell me where they wish to wear the waist of their kilt. I also allow them to determine where the hem will hit the knee. It's your money, you should get what you want.


So, yes, it can be done, it can be done well, and there are those of us who specialize in just this sort of thing.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

To give a different perspective, myself and most any other kiltmaker I know (who makes box pleated kilts) would suggest a minimum 4 yard length for your kilt (2 yards if you are purchasing double width fabric).

And I would strongly encourage you to measure so that your kilt fits at your natural waist -- this is a traditional garment and that is where it is designed to fit, so anything else just would not look right to most people's eyes, and you may find the kilt does not fit you as well.

Steve I know is more than happy to make a kilt to fit lower on your hips, and if you feel you must have your kilt made that way, I'd recommend going with someone like Steve who has experience making more contemporary style kilts.

[xman]

1) My waist in actual measurement's
Is around 32
And my Hip
39

You're exactly my size then.

If I were to make or commission a box-pleated kilt at some point, which length of a tartan should I order? Somewhere between 3.5 yards to 4.5?
I realize it doesn't make a huge difference, but in cost it does.

What Steve and Matt said. Get the 2 yrds double width so that the sett lands nicely with the elbow room of 1/4 yrd.

Any guesstimate's at a safe length?

To the top of the knee.

2) People have said the tartan kilt look's poorly at the supposed jean waist, but in trying on kilt's at a local shop, I have found that I really do not like wearing them at the natural waist. I just can't relax in it with my breathing. Highly expansive stomach.
Is there any kilt-maker's that would and possibly has experience in doing a box pleated kilt at the jean waist?

If you drop the top of the kilt that low you would be virtually unable to wear a sporran with your kilt. This is one advantage of wearing the kilt at your natural waist.

If you are having trouble breathing with your kilt at your natural waist then you are breathing incorrectly. Your diaphragm is a muscle which bisects your torso at the bottom ribs which is just above your natural waist where the top of the kilt with rise would end up. It is responsible for your breathing. It expands downward displacing the organs below it to suck or inhale air into your lungs. The body naturally wants to expand your abdomen rather than your stomach to inhale breath. Jeans are actually much more restrictive to breathing than a traditional kilt is. As we say in the theatrical tradition, "Breath into your anus". No I'm not joking. 'Breath deeply' means down low. Not enough to raise your shoulders, but drop your intestines.

I know it's unfamiliar for many who first wear the kilt to have it on so high, but it doesn't take long to appreciate the comfort once you become used to it.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

If you drop the top of the kilt that low you would be virtually unable to wear a sporran with your kilt. This is one advantage of wearing the kilt at your natural waist.

To which I would add that most kilt jackets, especially Prince Charlie coatees, are designed to be worn with higher waisted kilts, ie: those that are worn at the natural waist. In the case of a PC the lower waisted kilts tend to gap at the side (and often at the front as well) showing your shirt bewteen the jacket/waistcoat and kilt. Not a pretty sight.

[Pleater]

Another consideration is the proportion of your height to the length of the kilt - if you wear the kilt low then there is less of it - as the lower edge is usually to the top of the knee. This can look a little rediculous - depending on your own proportions, particularly if you wear a top of a colour which is a great contrast to the colour of the kilt, or a loose fitting top of any colour.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[McElmurry]

To get a better idea how a tradition kilt might feel I strapped on a one inch belt at my true waist. The belt seems to seek the true waist between the top of the hipbone and the first rib. I did this several mornings while I was going through my routine making breakfast, eating, checking the news, etc. I found the belt was not as constricting as I thought it would be and allowed expansion of the lower abdomen. I also strapped on a towel in this fashion. I chose a towel that was close to the length of kilt I wanted so I could get a sense for what it would look and feel like.

Your mileage may vary of course and there are capable kilt makers for whatever style kilt you finally decide you want.

[Jock Scot]

To get a better idea how a tradition kilt might feel I strapped on a one inch belt at my true waist. The belt seems to seek the true waist between the top of the hipbone and the first rib. I did this several mornings while I was going through my routine making breakfast, eating, checking the news, etc. I found the belt was not as constricting as I thought it would be and allowed expansion of the lower abdomen. I also strapped on a towel in this fashion. I chose a towel that was close to the length of kilt I wanted so I could get a sense for what it would look and feel like.

I am having a quiet smile to myself, thinking about all this experimenting and trials, but you could have asked any traditionally kilted Scotsman whose ancestors discovered all this, rather a long time ago!

[Spartan Tartan]

I am not a kilt maker by any stretch of the imagination. I can see those who are have properly answered your question about the amount of material.

Now, up front, please understand that how a person decides to wear their kilt is a personal choice. However, there are A LOT of people and therefore a LOT of opinions. Understand that they are all equal.

Steve is right about it being your money. So whatever you do (traditional or modern/contemporary, etc...), just be sure you are happy with what you are getting.

Traditionally there are good reasons for wearing your kilt at the natural waist. Others have pointed that out. If you intend to dress it up for more formal events AND choose to do so in a traditional manner, then you will miss the boat (so to speak) having a kilt at the jeans waist. That said, you could always custom order all your jackets and waistcoats and extend their lengths correspondingly.

However, if you really just want a casual kilt to be worn casually and not otherwise...then all those otherwise traditional reasons do not apply to you. Wearing a kilt at the natural waist may not seem comfortable at first, but I assure you that you will become used to it and the comfort factor will increase.

Bottom line: What do YOU want to do while wearing the kilt? This is the question for you. After answering that, you can seek opinions/advice from those that wear their kilts for similar purposes.

Me, personally, I am in the natural waist club. I also tend to dress more traditionally--not always, but usually. And when I do go very casual, the kilt is more comfortable at the natural waist too (for me).

Were it me, I would buy a cheap kilt to wear at my natural waist to test out if I could get used to it before I sunk a ton of cash into a hand-made box pleat!

Also, are you SURE that the kilt you tried on wasn't too small for you and pull too tightly to close properly? Just throwing that out there...kilts are generally a custom garment. I can't even get the sales guys/gal at Old Navy to "assist" me in finding pants that fit. If the guy assisting you wasn't (1) wearing a kilt himself, or (2) an actual kilt maker, I would be suspect that he was really concerned about the proper fit for you.

Again, that is my opinion...worth nothing more than the others (including your own).

[Bassbarijpm]

You may want to read over the XKilt Instruction Manual. New Link for downloading the X-Kilt manual as of 2/14/2011:

http://cmgm.stanford.edu/~ahebert/Xk...t2ndedRevK.pdf

This is the second edition, which includes Tartan Hikers construction notes and sydnie's Reverse Kinguisse X-Kilt instructions, as well as a revised description of the part in the first edition that confused more people than all the rest of the manual put-together....the over-apron strip..