Moving Buckles

[Mickey]

I know I should have paid more attention to this topic in the past, but I didn't because I'm a bit thick. My best kilt no longer fits me, and I need to tighten it up. When moving buckles, is moving one enough, or is it best to move both sides to keep things even?

[Rob, ClanMacMillan, NM]

When one of my kilts unaccountably "grew" in the closet, I didn't move the buckles, I merely added more. Bought some buckles and cotton strap at Hobby Lobby - attached them together - then attached to the kilt. I can easily remove the extra buckles when/if needed. The kilt hides the existing buckles when I put it on. Cost about $15 US for buckles and straps.

Rob.

[Rob, ClanMacMillan, NM]

Just realized I didn't answer the question in the original post -- yes, I added the buckles on both sides to keep it even. The left side is inside the kilt and the two on the right are outside per the standard style.

Rob

[flyrod6057]

To tighten a kilt, you're going to have to move the strap on the left and the buckles on the right. You might not have to do both, but chances are: if you've changed shape enough to justify tailoring the kilt, you're going to want to move both. Depending on how your kilt is shaped, or how you're shaped, you might get away without moving the lower buckle.

The strap will need to be moved toward the center of the kilt by the amount you wish to shrink it. The buckle gets moved toward the center of the back of the kilt by a similar amount. Luckily, this shouldn't require having to deconstruct anything. You should be able to simply remove the stitching on the buckles and the strap and reposition them where you want.

Good luck!

[Chas]

Mickey - it is buckle on your right hip, but strap on the left.

Move them by the same amount, in multiples of 2". That is to say, 2" on the right and 2" on the left. When re-stitching the strap, sew it onto the outer face of the apron, so that any spare material is not bunched up but lays flat.

There is really no great mystery and if you can sew a button on, you can do this.

It takes me 59 minutes - kilt off, remove and re-stitch buckle, remove and re-stitch strap, kilt on.

Regards

Chas

[Mickey]

Ah, that makes perfect sense now! Thanks so much, guys

[escherblacksmith]

not to thread jack . . . but how far is this acceptable? I'd imagine 4" (on a side) would be the max . . . lots of extra material lying around . . .

thoughts?

[Chas]

not to thread jack . . . but how far is this acceptable? I'd imagine 4" (on a side) would be the max . . . lots of extra material lying around . . .

thoughts?

Seeing as you do both sides, that is 8" total. That is going to put the whole waist to hips ratio out and look awful. If you have lost that amount of weight, sell the kilt and buy one that fits.

Regards

Chas

[Geoff Withnell]

Here's a thread with a 10" move successfully made by Barb Tewksbury! http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...oo-much-59745/

Seeing as you do both sides, that is 8" total. That is going to put the whole waist to hips ratio out and look awful. If you have lost that amount of weight, sell the kilt and buy one that fits.

Regards

Chas

[The Wizard of BC]

Please remember that when you move buckles and straps, you must sew all the way through the internal stabilizers and interfacings.

If you sew just through the outer Tartan layer the kilt will fail. You will begin to pop stitches and the fabric will begin to distort from the stress of strapping it on.

Go ahead and sew all the way through with the stitches showing inside the kilt. No one will see them but the peace of mind will be worth it.



I also guide and advise customers that they should take the under-apron/over-apron relationship into account when considering moving straps and buckles.
As you make a kilt larger the outer-apron will no longer cover the under-apron. For the first few inches the under-apron peeking out will look like another pleat. After about 3 or 4 inches though it will be noticable.