Which Fabric ?

[Grizzly]

Am just about to pull the trigger on a full tank but I have a query which is in two parts -

If you had a very similar tartan available from two different mills i.e. Lochcarron 16oz and D C Dalgleish 15oz which fabric would you choose and why?

Incidentally there is one person who is not allowed to answer - you know who you are.

Thank you and may I take this opportunity to wish you all a merry Christmas and a healthy and prosperous new year.

[EagleJCS]

I'd probably go with the Locharron, simply because I already have a kilt in the 16 oz Locharron, and it's held up very well. I don't wear it very often, though, and even less now that I've lost weight and it's too big.

[Tobus]

I own kilts in both of these fabrics, and while I love the colour ranges DC Dalgliesh offers, I really prefer the feel of the Lochcarron 16 oz over the DC Dalgliesh 15 oz. It just feels more substantial in the hand.

[mookien]

Tough question, though I suppose you already know that, since you asked. Both mills weave lovely cloth, and so you can't go wrong with either.

FWIW, I have kilts in both and very slightly prefer the Dalgliesh cloth, because of its plush texture and feel. The Lochcarron cloth feels smoother as I rub my hand across it. There's nothing wrong with that, especially if you prefer "smoother".

Visually, and because of its slightly rougher texture (I suppose), my Dalgliesh kilts look older (like they were made years ago), while my Locharron kilts look newer (like they were made last week). Even if you agree with that assessment, it's a matter of choice.

Finally, as I understand it, they have different selvages (edges). Lochcarron uses a tuck selvage - an artifact of the Rapier looms on which the cloth is woven (I think), while Dalgliesh uses woven selvages. Frankly, I have a hard time telling the difference even when looking at them, but to some folks that difference is important. (Folks actually knowledgeable about tartan weaving may cringe now.)

An interesting and illustrative thread on the subject of selvages may be seen at

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-images-71523/

Good luck on your decision, but keep in mind that your problem is a good problem to have.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I have owned and worn extensively kilts from both fabrics, and I have worked as a kiltmaker extensively with both fabrics. I can say without hesitation that both are very good quality and would have no issues recommending either.

Assuming cost was not a factor, and you were equally happy with the color palette of either mill, I would opt for Dalgliesh cloth myself. Part of the reason is that it has a better selvage. It actually has a true woven selvage rather than a tuck selvage like Lochcarron's cloth (and cloth from most other mills). Another part of the reason is that I simply like the hand of the cloth better (though Lochcarron cloth has a nice hand, as well).

I offer both, as a kilt maker, and I am happy to share these close-up photos of the selvages from both mills, in case it makes a difference in your decision.

First, Dalgliesh's woven selvage.


Second, Lochcarron's tuck selvage.

[Jock Scot]

I have limited experience of Dalgliesh 15oz cloth, but extensive knowledge of Lochcarron 16oz and both are absolutely fine as far as the quality of the cloth goes. However, I do wonder at the wisdom of the lightweight(my definition) 15 oz tartan in "our" climate, time will tell. If only they made 22oz tartan these days! Sigh and sigh again.

[creagdhubh]

Either mill is my recommendation! I have kilts in tartan from both mills and love them equally. Matt's advice is spot on too. Best of luck and Happy Christmas and Hogmanay!

Cheers,

[Tobus]

FWIW, I have kilts in both and very slightly prefer the Dalgliesh cloth, because of its plush texture and feel. The Lochcarron cloth feels smoother as I rub my hand across it. There's nothing wrong with that, especially if you prefer "smoother".

Interesting. My experience is exactly the opposite. The Lochcarron cloth feels thicker, or puffier (for lack of a better term). It is what I would describe as feeling more plush than DC Dalgliesh cloth, although I do agree that it feels smoother. The 15 oz cloth from DC Dalgliesh feels thinner, and the yarn has a slightly rougher/pricklier consistency.

But I will admit that my Lochcarron kilt is older than my DC Dalgliesh one, so that may factor in as well. Someone like Matt who mostly handles new cloth would be a better judge than I.

As for the selvedge, I do like the looks of DC Dalgliesh's woven selvedge better than Lochcarron's tuck selvedge. But DC Dalgliesh has been known to produce cloth where the selvedge is pretty wavy. It doesn't bother me much because it's traditional and hardly noticeable (on mine, anyway). But there has been at least one person on this forum who was very disappointed that it wasn't straight.

[brewerpaul]

Not having either cloth made into kilt I cant speak for the quality of feel of it. You likely comparing "Apples to apples" and will win either way. My deciding factor would only be supporting a weaver like DC Dalgliesh which is a smaller mill that in my mind needs support to maintain the old traditional ways. With the loss of so many fabric mills around the world I feel supporting them wins with me. Both companies would give you superior fabric but Id send my money to DC Dalgliesh if it were me spending it.

[Grizzly]

Thank you all for your views and insight and special thanks to Matt for the photos. They clearly show the difference between a tucked and traditional selvedge. I think I know which one I shall go for but will mull it over during the seasonal festivities. As both mills are currently out of stock whichever I choose there will be a delay. However it seems as though I can't lose either way so it's a win/win situation.

Thanks again everyone and good health to you.