tartan design

[be da veva]

Nice, I really like version 2.

[crash]

Nice, I really like version 2.

***

[figheadair]

Version 2 is a better design however, I do like white based setts for kilts etc as they are too pale and more importantly (for me) non-traditional and they get dirty. If you are going to stick with large areas of white make sure that you specify 'ecru' (unbleached white) as the shade if you have the design woven otherwise you'll end up with something that will require sunglasses .

[Domehead]

Figheadair,

Re: the OP's question about expressing thread count:
Loomed on Balanced-Warp, if the half-sett is threaded K3 ... P9 or P9 ... K3, will this make a difference which colors end up at the selvage?
If so, it does matter how the thread count is recorded K3 ... P9 or P9 ... K3, correct?

Thanks for any information,
Domehead, on behalf of.

[figheadair]

Figheadair,

Re: the OP's question about expressing thread count:
Loomed on Balanced-Warp, if the half-sett is threaded K3 ... P9 or P9 ... K3, will this make a difference which colors end up at the selvage?
If so, it does matter how the thread count is recorded K3 ... P9 or P9 ... K3, correct?

Thanks for any information,
Domehead, on behalf of.

One should start with the lowest aphabetical pivot colour so in this case it would be K. Personally I would not use P = pink as it's easily confused with P = purple. I prefer Wilsons' 'rose' which can be abreviated as Rs or LR = light red.

So far as the selvedge is concerned; if it didn't balance out to something that worked visually (and that woild depend on the width and weight of the cloth) then I'd offset the warp to achieve the desired effect.

[Domehead]

One should start with the lowest aphabetical pivot colour so in this case it would be K. Personally I would not use P = pink as it's easily confused with P = purple. I prefer Wilsons' 'rose' which can be abreviated as Rs or LR = light red.

I actually suggested that very thing based entirely on your research in the 1819 KBP,
"I like the tartan. Quite a bit, actually. The use of "pink" or "rose" (Wilson's maybe?) is a vintage nod that is underutilized."- pg. 1 of Thread

But, expressing the thread count has a protocal: 1/2 the number of threads @ the pivots and the lowest alphabetical color first.
Looming said threads depends on those variables outlined in the KPB, to wit the experienced weaver makes professional judgements to facilitate a desired outcome.

Thank you very much. Love the book. Appreciate the effort.

[saharris]

Version 2 is a better design however, I do like white based setts for kilts etc as they are too pale and more importantly (for me) non-traditional and they get dirty. If you are going to stick with large areas of white make sure that you specify 'ecru' (unbleached white) as the shade if you have the design woven otherwise you'll end up with something that will require sunglasses .

perhaps more black, then?



I wouldn’t have a tartan made that was pure white. I actually prefer the field of my arms (on which this tartan is based) to be more “off-white” than white.

This one (v.3) now stands at: P16 G56 W32 K8 W8 K32

[Domehead]

I really like v.3. Especially re-incorporating more "pink" / "rose". P16/18 looks very nice. And again, in my opinion, often underutilized.

[SlackerDrummer]

You could reduce the white like this:

[Domehead]

SD,
First off...
I don't know if you recall, but you tipped me to a great web site for Regimental / Colegiate Striped ties. I've bought them and they've worked out brilliantly. Thanks for the info.
As for the tartan. I do like your take. Of course, I like the additional "pink". As well, I like the black guard stripes. The only thing that may come to mind is border check?