Confession time

[Jon Lilley]

I confess I made a huge mistake. I made a new kilt for the girlfriend with the waist & raise where it's supposed to be. What was I thinking? Well, she informs me that she doesn't like it right up under the 'girls' and won't wear it, because she says it's uncomfortable. (Stupid me for not thinking to measure her band kilt, huh? I'll never make that mistake again!!!)

I used Strome weight wool and decided not to hem, but to disassemble and rebuild instead. Well, I'm down to the pleats again (all the guts are out) and I'm about to whack off the top 3". Before I do, are there any other considerations I'd need to think about? My plan is to rebuild it to her band kilt size so NO more guessing there. I will lower the 'button hole', of course, but do I need to take out the steeking and sew the pleats a bit longer? All opinions welcome!

I know you're all busy with Holiday stuff, but thanks in advance for taking the time to help out!

Jon

Bliadhna Mhath 2013 Ùr!

[The Wizard of BC]

When you made the kilt the first time was the Hem in the right place? Was the Bottom of the Fell in the right place?

If so then all you need to do, to lower the waist of the kilt, is to chop off the top. You really don't need to un-stitch the entire Fell if the tapering fit the shape of the wearer.

You will need to change the position of the strap hole as you note. You will also need to re-position the Stabilizer.

And just a small detail that you may not find in "The Art of Kiltmaking". Before you put the waist banding back on, have the lady put the kilt on. See if the fit is good. You may find that it will be helpful to cut the front of the apron down just a bit if there appears to be a bit of pucker in the apron.

[Tartan Tess]

...and me sitting next to you at kilt camp wasn't distracting at all.

[Barb T]

You might have a look at the post I did last fall on a kilt for a woman:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...t-woman-75461/

I basically started with regular measurements and adjusted them. You're doing basically the same thing except starting with a fully made kilt. What you're aiming for is similar, tough.

Do I understand that, by lopping off 3", you're aiming for a kilt that rides below the waist? If so, you can't put on a normal stabilizer, because the kilt will taper all the way from the bottom of the fell to the top of the kilt. For the kilt in the post above, I used a piece of twill tape 1/2" wide and sewn along the line where I was planning to put the top band. Keeps the top from stretching, but it allows for the taper. And, if you want it to fit well, measure her 1" below her waist where she will be wearing the top of the kilt, and use that measurement to make sure that the stabilizer holds the kilt at that measurement.

You definitely don't want to stitch the fell any lower, because it's only the top of the kilt that will ride lower - the bottom of the fell will still be in the same place.

And I would not bother with a buttonhole. I would use the kind of inside strap that we use on a box pleat kilt. That way, you won't have to open a new buttonhole. If you want instructions, you can download a pdf from my web site at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu/personal/kiltmaking Just scroll down to the bottom of the right hand column, and click on the link to the supplement.

Oh - and you'll also want to do something to secure the stitching at the top of each pleat so that your pleats won't unravel.

[Jon Lilley]

Thank you all for your help!

@Steve; Yes, the hem & the bottom of the fell are exactly where they're supposed to be. Thanks for the tip on the apron pucker. I can deal with that pretty easily. No worries about fittings either. It's her family tartan so she has NO problem putting it on. I'm really looking forward to meeting you if you come down to NY this summer!

@Teri; You're the best distraction anyone could ever ask for!!! This is the Robertson I was telling you about - not a kilt Kamp project.

@Barb; I read your article and that was what started me worrying. I thought I had a pretty good idea of what I was going to do until I realized everything you talked about was decided from the very beginning. Going back over an already completed garment really had me in over-process mode. Great idea to put the left strap on the inside and close up the hole. And yes, I will reinforce the top. I can't wait to meet and work with you as well, Barb. Come Hell or High water, I'll be there!

Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate the tips!!!

Jon