Spenser Jacket and Buttons

[tundramanq]

I now have pictures. Note I am 5' 10" and chest is 39", This is an American made WWTuxedo Spencer jacket 36XL ( XL - due to how low I wear my kilts - Body lengh is exactly 2 inches longer than a 36R ). As expected, I rehemed the sleeves 1 7/8 inch shorter, (1 inch below the wrist bones) - if you look close, the permanent felt tip marks are still on the backs of my hands about an inch above my knuckles from measureing. After experimenting with button placement using yellow sticky pad squares, I settled on the PC layout and number and marked the spots and sewed the purple filled pewter diamond buttons on in the current positions. As of now the sleeves are bare. The jury is still out on placing a single button on each sleeve in the standard suit jacket positions. Since this isn't a regulation PC, no back buttons or tails, the sleeve buttons showing from the back would balance the "bling" on the front.

The vest is the next project, with more on order that have more "cut away"in front. This 3 button stops at the 2.5 inch belt top in back and is as you see it in front.
Ordered are: 2- 3 button chain points in Dark gray and black and 1 from another brand, a 4 button point and a knit 5 button point. What dosen't get used here will still be used casually - that's my excuse and I am sticking with it......

Windy Day - jacket A-OK. kilt so so. - went back inside. Rocky, FYI that's a 40mph side gust on your Casual:

Front view:

Back - I'm sloching here, when I stand straight the jacket hem aligns with bottom of belt:

Side view:

Then quarter view:

[Tim Little]

Lookin' good!

[MNlad]

Good look. Formal, but not to busy.

[tundramanq]

I bought a few vests to go with the Spenser and solo. Thought I would get second opinions.
First the vests alone:
The 5 button (RVE), I think covering the belt and hanger straps looks cleaner.

The 3 button (SVE), It covers the belt but seems to work best with the bottom button undone.

The 3 button (TLV1), This 3 button vest is shorter and exposes belt and hangers.

The 3 button (JW), The scoop on the 3 button is a bit dramatic, maybe intended for ruffle shirt use. I had to create the cutaway on the bottom.

[tundramanq]

The Spencer jacket with the 5 button vest:

And with the 3 button (JW) vest:


The cutaway on the bottom on these point vests that I have seen here and at the highland retailers seems to vary in the pictures I have seen from none to a squared off flat top cutout. Keeps me guessing

The kilt, Isle of Skye, USAK Casual PV.

[Nile]

Looks really good Chuck! I much prefer the Spencer with the 5 button vest as opposed to the 3 button and that Isle of Skye kilt looks great with all of it.
Nile

[MacRobert's Reply]

I think the jacket looks good with the new buttons. However, to my eye only the three-button waistcoats work well with the jacket, and with a white shirt and black bow tie would look smart in the evening. Certainly similar highland buttons on the waistcoat should look good.

If wearing a waistcoat, I would omit the belt in favour of a conventional sporran chain or strap. Just my two-pence worth!

[tundramanq]

I think the jacket looks good with the new buttons. However, to my eye only the three-button waistcoats work well with the jacket, and with a white shirt and black bow tie would look smart in the evening. Certainly similar highland buttons on the waistcoat should look good.

If wearing a waistcoat, I would omit the belt in favour of a conventional sporran chain or strap. Just my two-pence worth!

I agree on the belt but am pretty much married to using them to anchor the kilt due to having to wear my kilts on my hip bones. A little surgical issue up higher.

I have 6 more of the matching diamond thistle buttons for when I settle on which vests to use.
I also have 12 round pewter Viking ship buttons for my closer Danish lineage. I like the diamonds but they are hard on the button holes.

The 3 or 5 button is a tossup here. Argyll jackets i see use the 5 button vest. But this waist cut spenser jacket is cut and fits like a tailless PC which I only recall seeing with 3 button vest, with and without collar.

I do have a true custom Argyll jacket and vest on order from Rocky.
And thanks Nile the Isle of Skye was a love at first sight of the whole kilt. And the green/violet tartan combo dosent seem to clash with any of my shirts.

[CMcG]

I think the longer lapels of a Spencer jacket look better with a low-cut waistcoat because they line up, but also because that is conventional. The lower cut of the waistcoat calls for a bow tie, as a long neck tie is too exposed, but also just having the end tucked into the vest makes the tie prone to bulging. Also, a black bow tie is what is typically worn with a Spencer jacket. That is a formal wear combination and would typically be worn with a white shirt.

If you are sticking with the belt, go for something in black with a plate buckle because it matches the formality of the jacket. I would skip the waistcoat if wearing a belt; it causes a bump, which is exacerbated by the sporran hangers.

It would be ideal to use a sporran with a metal cantle too... I believe you have a horsehair sporran that would work here. And much better than with the Utilikilt I seem to recall you wanting to pair it with!

Basically, the Spenser is a black tie jacket, so it calls for the rest of the outfit to follow suit. Trying to dress it down, looks like just that: a formal jacket that is being mixed with casual items. To each their own, but that is sort of like wearing a tuxedo jacket with jeans... an odd juxtaposition. If you choose to do it, at least you are doing so with the knowledge that it is unconventional

[tundramanq]

Thank you CMcG! Although I am near 60, I have only tuxed once and it was a rental where they put it all together. So I am truly a baby at this thing and the last thing I wish to do is be a walking train wreak.
On the tie, other than with the 5 button vest, I knew something wasn't quite right but couldn't put a finger on the problem.
All color choices are what I had on when I decided to toss this "ain't quite right yet mess" to the rabble and grabbed the camera, vests and jacket.
I have the exact same belt, hangers and sporran in black and should have switched for the pictures.
Will have to get a bow tie which I have never tied before - should be an interesting side show . Will they work with these shirts collars?
Just realized the horse hair is in the picture to the right as a bagged display piece of my livingroom since the Utilikilt trial run.
Will work on a plate buckle. There should be some I can use with the 2.5 inch belts I am using - maybe a plain or suble designed western plate with a wider belt attaching loop. Have never looked at how Celtic kilt buckles work. Think the belt loops back on both sides of the buckle. Probably should get off the nickle and buy a kilt belt.