Fringe on your apron or no fringe?

[mookien]

Fringe is not high on my priority list. In fact I have no preference. Individual kilts that I own have zero, one, or multiple fringes. They all look nice.

Matt makes his kilts without fringe unless you request it and pay an extra $15. And, I think it is only a single fringe. Historically, kilts were first made without a fringe. For details see

http://newhousehighland.com/kilt_details.html

[O'Searcaigh]

Three wools and one cotton all with fringe; only un-fringed are two cotton "work outside day" DIYs.

[GG]

I answered “fringe”, because when I have the option I always chose “fringe” but in fact it is mostly because I then have the feeling of getting something extra for free, and not an issue for me really.

[denmcdough]

I have eleven kilts, all of various materials, but mostly wool, and I prefer fringe!

[seanachie]

I put a triple fringe on both the tweed and tartan kilts I make. On the hemp and leather kilts no fringe. ( don't ever refer my kilts as mugs in my presence cause I'll ram something down your throat and it won't be pretty)

Amen to that Robert! As we were discussing the other day, an RKilt is truly a kilt with traditional aprons and pleats. Fringe on hemp might be a hassle maintaining given the activities I wear this kilt for.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Why do some kilts have fringe and others not? Where did the practice of a fringed apron come from?

The original tailored kilts had a lot fewer features than we are used to. The earliest examples had aprons with a self-fringe. These aprons were not tapered or shaped at all. The fabric was simply cut (or ripped) in a straight line and allowed to fringe. After about half an inch or so had fringed, the tightness of the weave would generally prevent any more fringing. Here is a photo of the earliest known surviving tailored kilt, a regimental Gordon Highlanders kilt c. 1796.

(photo courtesy Bob Martin).
Note this is a box pleated kilt containing less than 4 yards of cloth.

But from almost the same time we have examples of kilts with a non-fringed apron, as well. This MacDuff kilt was in the collection of the Scottish Tartans Museum in NC for a long while and was finally returned to the Scottish Tartans Authority in Crieff last year. It dates from somewhere c. 1800, and is also a four yard box pleated kilt, but this one of civilian origin.


Both the inner and outer apron edges are finished with a small hem, though neither is shaped or tapered at all.


By the time you get into the early nineteenth century, most all kilts being made had a finished apron edge of some sort (though not always tapered). But the norm seemed to be non-fringed. I have not made an intentional study of the matter, but I cannot recall seeing any nineteenth century kilt personally that had a fringed apron. Looking through the photographs of early kilts in Bob Martin's All About Your Kilt, the only nineteenth century kilt where a fringed apron can be seen is a Cameron kilt, c. 1860, for the 7th NY Cameron Highlanders. Keep in mind these kilts were made by New York City dressmakers, not Scottish kilt makers, and so have many design features not normally seen on Scottish kilts of that era.

So I would imagine that fringed aprons are a twentieth century introduction. And they are seen only on civilian kilts. Military kilts (whether knife pleated or box pleated makes no difference) do not have fringed aprons.* However, they have become the norm on civilian kilts, so much so that many kilt wearers don't even realize it is an option. Most kilt makers don't even ask their clients if they have a preference, and if they do it is likely to be "do you want a double fringe or a triple fringe?" not "do you want a fringe or not?"

*The only exception to the military kilts not having fringed aprons that I am aware of would be the hodden grey kilts of the London Scottish (and Toronto Scottish) which feature a solid blue fringe.

A fringed apron is purely decorative and serves no purpose other than to add a bit of visual interest. If you like it, fine. If you don't like it, that's fine, too.

For my own kilt making practices, I try to model what I do on nineteenth century styles as much as possible. For that reason my standard practice is not to fringe the aprons. But if a client requests it, I will happily make an apron with a single fringe. Double and triple fringes are very much twentieth century introductions and just not what I'm about (though nothing wrong with them if you like them).

I own kilts of both varieties and wear them both. There is no distinction in my mind as far as formal or casual wear, just whatever I felt like when I made the kilt. If I had a preference at all, I would have to say it was slightly for a non-fringed apron.

Here are some examples of kilts I have made where you can clearly see the apron edge.












Here's one I made for a client who wanted an early style philabeg with a straight, self-fringed apron.

[Domehead]

Contributions like this is what makes XMTS brilliant.
Matt, this is why I get all my kilts from you.

Continued thanks.
Slainte,
Domehead

[creagdhubh]

Contributions like this is what makes XMTS brilliant.

Indeed!

[Nathan]

*The only exception to the military kilts not having fringed aprons that I am aware of would be the hodden grey kilts of the London Scottish (and Toronto Scottish) which feature a solid blue fringe.

I agree, the vast majority of kilted regiments go with a non fringed kilt. I just wanted to add another exception as an FYI, and that is the Irish Regiment of Canada, whose "O'Saffron" tartan knife pleated kilts feature a solid kelly green fringe seen in the photos below.



As I mentioned, my vote would have been for no preference as I have one with a fringe and one without and think they are equally smart looking.

Thanks for the historical perspective Matt. It's always valuable.

[WillowEstate]

My ex-Military has no fringe, my lightweight has two fringes. Personally, I prefer the clean sharp edge of the ex-Military without the fringe but each to his own...