Formal footwear

[CMcG]

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I think a heavier (double) sole is better for most kilted occasions. Again, other than the most formal, sorry for the derailing... Anybody else have an opinion on sole thickness?

Personally, I like some sole on my shoes for practical reasons such as cushioning and grip. My understanding of formal footwear, however, is that traditionally there is an inversely proportional relationship between formality and sole thickness i.e. the more formal the event, the thinner the sole. There are, of course, other considerations such as colour, detailing, and construction...

... I was thinking an Oxford (balmoral) brogue would be fine for morning dress, but not sure how it would suit with black tie in the evening?

Well here we are. Not the best of pictures, but should give a flavour. After all your excellent advice, I've decided on and acquired a pair of British army surplus highland brogues - issued to Scottish and Gurkha regiments - all leather, goodyear welted, unworn and only 40 quid. ...

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Those are pretty sweet, StevieR. If you take BCAC's advice and put a regimental shine on them, they will be very suitable for morning dress or day wear. Personally, I feel like they aren't the best choice for black tie in the evening. You could probably get away with it if you polish them enough, but they aren't ideal.

The idea I have in my head is that the only brogues that really go with formal, Highland evening attire are bar & buckle brogues or ghillie brogues. Some people even don't prefer either of those! For black tie evening wear, the aforementioned non-perforated, closed lace, thin sole, dress shoes would probably the most universally accepted -- aka Balmoral/Oxford. Can anyone comment on this?