X-Kilt washing/pressing sanity check

**usonian** · 25th November 13, 09:56 AM

So, last week I made an X-kilt out of a medium-weight poly-cotton twill. Prior to sewing I washed, dried, and ironed the fabric, and a few mishaps aside it came together quickly and easily for a first attempt - a really satisfying project with a much lower cost and shorter DIY jones than a traditional, hand-sewn kilt. All of my chalk marks had pretty much disappeared by the time I got the thing finished, so I just put it on and wore it all day at an event this weekend. It received many nice compliments!

Then I ran the finished kilt through the washer and dryer. I was surprised by how much additional shrinkage seems to have happened... a bit of puckering along the waistband and all the stitched pleat edges (I stitched very close to the edges, no more than 1/16", and with the shrinkage they've become a bit of a curly mess). I'm not sure I'd call it catastrophic, but it's definitely going to take an annoyingly long session with the spray bottle and iron to get it looking like something I'd want to wear in public again. How typical is this for the initial wash of an X-kilt, where all the fabric is still getting used to being stitched into its new configuration? I'm assuming that the main problem is that I just didn't pre-shrink the fabric enough, but I'd be interested in additional anecdata. I know anything with cotton in it is going to require some pressing after a run through the dryer, but this seems a bit extreme.

**Pleater** · 25th November 13, 10:20 AM

The dryer could be the culprit - I line dry all my kilts and smooth the pleats when damp, with the cotton ones a few tugs can be required to remind the folds of how they should line up.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**ratspike** · 25th November 13, 02:25 PM

I usually take my kilts out of the dryer while they're still a bit damp and hang them up, and like Pleater said, give the pleats a tug. Did you take your kilt out immediately after it finished drying or did it sit in there for a while? Even poly/cotton can be a little bit of a mess if it's left to hang out in the dryer once the cycle is done. You could toss it back in the dryer with a damp towel and I bet the crumples and wrinkles will sort themselves out.

**usonian** · 25th November 13, 03:14 PM

I confess it did sit in the dryer for a while after the cyle, which of course never does *any* garment any favors. The worst of the problem in my case was the puckering along seams where the fabric shrank; these weren't just surface wrinkles, it was the fabric protesting against the stitching... but hopefully the first time through will be the worst. I'll be sure to remove promptly from the wash and air dry next time.

In the meantime I was able to get it back under control by going down the entire length of the kilt and ironing each box pleat seam; first along the front side, then along the back side. The pleats in the fell on the wrong side needed particular attention, and after that I was finally able to lay it right side up, straighten up and arrange the pleats, and give it a final once-over. I think box pleats probably present more headaches than knife pleats in this regard.

**swagmore** · 27th November 13, 12:39 PM

Hey Usonian, as a matter of experience I just ran my newly created Rev. K X-Kilt through its first wash and dry with other clothes (and yes it sat in the dryer for awhile after the dryer shut off). Mine is 100% Cotton Duck cloth canvas and when it came out I started in with an iron and it took me about 30 minutes to get it all sorted back out. Ironing both sides was needed but overall I did not notice any significant puckering around or next to the stitches that would have alarmed me. I did pre-wash the fabric on hot, dried it completely in the dryer and ironed it well with the help of a water spray bottle to get almost all of the wrinkles out prior to making the kilt. Overall it wasn't too bad of an experience and I think it will get better as I become more accustomed to it. Thanks for the post and the information it generated. It was good for my benefit as well.

Steve

**MNlad** · 27th November 13, 02:59 PM

I'm also of the half-dry school. Throw it in the dryer long enough to get the heavy moisture out, but hang it to finish drying. Seems to take the heaviest wrinkling out while still holding its shape. Tugging each pleat into position while its still damp really helps. With cotton & poly-cotton I know I'm going to be spending some time with the iron—it's the nature of the beast.

**Pleater** · 29th November 13, 01:23 PM

By the way, some materials will look better if you use a spray starch on them. Some of my kilts are made from fabrics which are rather too soft, but ironing them with a spray starch makes them smoother and more resistant to creasing. The spray is light coloured, so spraying it onto the inside is the best option. I am not sure if it is the added weight or the smoother surface but it definitely adds to the swish of a lightweight kilt. You can just spray it onto a damp kilt and it will help to keep the folds in place, but be sure that they are all smooth before it dries out or you'll have a skewed pleat until it is either washed, pressed or damped and realigned.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: