I have been making all my kilts in this style for some time now.

The process is actually fairly simple with a patterned material once you have the fabric measured and know what size the kilt has to be. If I am working with two or more strips of fabric I usually leave the centre back unsewn until after the pleats are sorted out.

First sort out the aprons, pin the inner shaping - approximate the under apron pleats and measure how much fabric is available for the pleats. The centre back box pleat needs to be wider than the other pleats, as wide as your sacrum - it stops it creeping up on you. Once you see the approximate size it can be adjusted so that the centre folds are correctly placed to show the correct part of the pattern, the stripe or part of the sett so as to conform with the other pleats. You can then make the outer folds of the rest of the pleats in each direction around to the under apron pleats. Once you know how many folds you have you can calculate the exact size of the pleats visible at the hip level and then check that you do not lose an important line in the pattern when the pleats are tapered into the waist.

The RK is indeed just the thing for going through scrub and heathland as the pleats are feathered on both sides.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: