The Layout strip you make stretches from the left side seam of trousers, across the butt, to the right side seam of trousers. It does not include the apron.

The center element used in the outer apron is in the center of the layout strip.
When pleating to the stripe you may have an even number of pleats or an odd number of pleats. It depends on how big your hips are.
When pleating to the Sett you will (almost) always use an odd number of pleats.

In my example The narrow white stripe of the Tartan is centered in the outer apron. So I cut my layout strip using a corresponding white stripe in its center and long enough to reach from side seam to side seam. In this example the layout strip is approx. 30" long.

To pleat to The Stripe: Please look at the first pic in post #25 to this thread. Can you see that I am laying out one pleat to The Stripe? For the next pleat move the same portion of the layout strip over to the next part of the Tartan that contains the same vertical stripe. (The small white one.)

The width of each stripe is already calculated by the marks.


To pleat to The Sett: Please look at pics 2-5 of Post #24 of this thread.
You should be able to see that pleat #1 on the layout strip is the same as the first pleat to the wearers left (right in the photo) of the apron edge. (The distance from the apron edge to the first pleat is determined IAW TAoK.)

For the first pleat align, in this example, the white stripe labeled "V" with the white stripe of your Tartan, the correct distance away from the apron. Make marks corresponding with "I" on the layout strip.

To continue pleating to the Sett move the layout strip along the fabric to your right till it again aligns up with the same part of the next Tartan pattern. (Again, the white stripe labeled "V") and mark the pleat numbered "II" on the layout strip.

Continue aligning and marking each successive pleat as you move right along your kilt fabric. When you get to the last pleat on the layout strip (which should be the same part of the Tartan pattern as you marked for pleat #1) you are done.

You can now layout the underapron IAW TAoK.