School me on industrial thread for kilts

[ratspike]

Steve, Rocky, Robert, and anyone else sewing on industrial machines, this question is for you.

I'm still working with domestic machines, a Singer 401A with a Kenmore 158 series on the way, but I finally got wise and ordered two 2oz spools of industrial thread to try out. Thing is, my google-fu is weak, and I haven't found anything definitive on what size thread is commonly used for apparel. Yeah, I know, that's a really open ended question. Most apparel sewing stuff I've found relates to fashion and making kids clothes, and then tactical gear and bag making at the other extreme.

I have a spool of T45, which I assumed would be a little burlier than the Coats and Guttermann thread I've been getting at Joann. It's definitely heavier and stitches are a little more obvious. Considering the style of kilts I make I don't find this to be a problem aesthetically. Did I make the right choice, or would T30 be better?

I also ordered a spool of T70 for making bags, which is the heaviest stuff I'd try and run in my machines. The stitches are really big and thick compared to what I'm used to, and I think might look good on the right kilt. Would thread this heavy be too much for apparel fabrics?

Fabric-wise, it's the usual suspects. Poly/cotton twill, canvas duck, and nyco ripstop. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

[The Wizard of BC]

In general the thinner the fabric the thinner the thread and vers visa.

With 99% of the fabrics for kilts I use standard Gutterman brand 100% Polyester thread.

[sydnie7]

You don't mention this and it may be obvious, but for the benefit of others who may be reading:

Be sure to size your needle to the thread (as well as to your fabric). There's a groove in the front of the needle, and the thread needs to fit into that groove for stitches to be properly formed. Bigger threads need bigger needles (duh). And just to confuse things, the sizing schemes for needles and threads is exactly opposite.

Thread: higher the number, bigger/thicker the thread

Needles: smaller the number, bigger the needle. This holds true for both sizing systems (basically European vs. domestic/Asian) which use different numbers but the same relationship of small number = big needle.

I recently spent half a day in a needles/threads seminar at my local sewing machine shop -- well worth the time, if you can find something similar!

[ratspike]

Yeah, the needle/thread/fabric relationship is pretty important. I used to just use a big needle all the time and call it a day, so not really the best approach. Now I use the needle that's best suited for what I'm sewing. I'm finding that industrial sewing stuff is a totally different game entirely, as everything seems very specific compared to home sewing, where things like machines and thread are more general purpose, do everything.

[The Wizard of BC]

Does everyone realize the main difference between an industrial machine and a home machine?

First off - an industrial machine has a knee lift. You lift the pressure foot with your right knee. This allows you to keep both hand on your work for better control.

Second - Most industrial machines are designed to do one single thing. They do not usually have 1500 computerized special stitches or other 'special' features. Button holes are done with a special button hole machine and that is all it does. My Pfaff 138's sew dead straight stitches all day, every day for 8 hours a day.

Third - Most industrial machines are repairable and adjustable. On mine the pressure foot is adjusted to open to 3/4" so I can fit all the layers of a kilt underneath. If anything breaks on my machines parts are readily available and replaceable with a minimum amount of down time.

A lot of home sewing machine sellers will brag about how their machine will sew through layers of leather. Well heck any machine will sew through leather with the proper needle. But will it sew leather all day long for three years?

I don't advise anyone to buy an industrial machine if you are not planning on making kilts as a profession. An older home machine will be able to do 90% of the kilt with no problem for the occasional kilt. Where a professional needs to fork over a couple of thousand dollars for an industrial machine is if they will turn on their machines in the morning and sew all day only turning if off before going home, and then return the next day and do it all over again.

[ratspike]

I have a computerized Pfaff that does a ton of stitches and it's computerized and a joy to sew with, and a terrible choice for making kilts. It's been in the shop for the last few weeks waiting on parts because I beat it nearly to death. After it comes back good as new I'm going to sell it. It's been a workhorse in spite of the lowest presser foot height on a sewing machine ever, but it's totally the wrong tool for the job. The mechanical machines I have are so, so, so much better.

I'm at an in-between point with my machine needs. I'm sewing a lot but an industrial machine is more of a really-should-have rather than a must-have. I'm also short on space, so a table dedicated to a single machine would require a lot of rearranging.

[Canuck]

I find t45 kinda light for my use. T69/70 is my go to thread for my hemp kilts. T135 for sporrans and t210 for my belts and the like. I buy it by the pound. Now of course I'm using industrial machines. My regular machines I run up to T70 the walking foots T135. The Seeger I will use T45.
My zigzag will use a T70 but is happier with lighter.
On a side note some industrial machines are equipped with a foot pedal to lift the presser foot which is kinda handy.
Also if you can get a machine with a needle position/thread cutter is a nice feature as well.
Walking foots deal with heavy fabrics like denim and canvas extremely well. They're less likely to give you grief when stitching pleats down in prep for attaching waistbands or dealing with multiple layers.
Cheers
Actually used industrial machines can be had for a few hundred dollars.
Good luck

[ratspike]

That's great info Robert, thanks. I'd have thought T70 would be too heavy even for the canvas I use, though to be fair it's only 9oz. Just curious, what's the weight of the hemp you use? Does it behave and sew like canvas duck?

[Canuck]

That's great info Robert, thanks. I'd have thought T70 would be too heavy even for the canvas I use, though to be fair it's only 9oz. Just curious, what's the weight of the hemp you use? Does it behave and sew like canvas duck?

I guess you would have to experiment, but I found it worked well with "Carhart" fabric. You can get hemp woven like duck but I generally use twill and it's 10 -13 oz.

[Stoff]

If you are looking for a true workhorse of a sewing machine, find an old cast iron treadle machine. If it is in good repair it will be almost indestructible. I currently use a Model 12 Singer which is about 102 years young. It only does straight stitch. When I want to do button holes I pull out the handy button hole machine that came with it when it was given to me. I have several old electric machines that have been gathering dust since I got the treadle.

Once you have used a treadle sewing machine you willnot want to go back to electric.

Stoff