New sewing machine stoke

[ratspike]

I thought I'd firmly convinced myself that an industrial machine would be too big for my workspace, that it'd be too noisy, I could get by without one, and all that blah blah blah. Happy as I've been with my vintage domestics there were still difficult to work with when it came to certain parts of making a kilt, and a constant struggle for making bags. For giggles I decided to troll Craigslist on Saturday, and I figured if there was anything for 3 bills or less I'd send an email, and if it was still available I'd go check it out.

Sunday morning I went to have a look at this fabulous Juki DDL-555. The woman selling it spent a bunch of time explaining how it worked and let me spend almost an hour sewing with it so I could be positive it would fit my needs. All I can say is wow. Just completely wow. It feeds thick material like it's nothing. Things like topstitching at the corners of cargo pockets and sewing velcro or the bottom part of belt loops over lots of pleats were always a challenge with my domestic machines, but easy as pie on the Juki. This one is set up to sew pretty slowly, relatively speaking, at 1000 stitches per minute. I was expecting it to be touchy, but it's super easy to work quite slow with it, plus it handwheels really well too. It's so precise and allows for so much control compared to what I'm used to. I spent some quality time this morning sewing one long, slow, straight stitch after another. Oh, and the presser foot knee lift? Completely just like wow.

If you sew a lot and ever have a chance to work with one of these, I highly recommend it. I understand why so many hardcore home sewers have industrial machines now. I'm way excited to knock out my next kilt order with it.

Pics or it didn't happen and all that...

[Tobus]

Cool, man, congrats! We have a Juki too, though it's a heavier model for stitching leather. They're pretty solid machines, and as long as you maintain it properly, it'll outlast you!

[ratspike]

The previous owner is a professional seamstress and this was her primary machine for the last 10 years. It's been well taken care of, which is nice. Oddly enough, she interned at Utilikilts for several months after graduating school. Apparently it's a great place to work, if a little crazy.

[The Wizard of BC]

Welcome to the big time Bob.

Here is one of my Pfaff 138/6's. I own four of these. All the same except for the date of manufacture. My oldest was made in 1964 and is still running strong.

I converted mine over to electronic motors. I don't have the motor running all day long with the associated hum and it allows you to control speed really well.



Notice that mine have a table extension added. This really helps when you are trying to move a kilt around.

And also notice my lamp. It is a long neck style and is mounted in a different place than yours. Mine allows the work to go all the way past the machine without catching on the lamp.


Here is an oblique shot.



Notice the small magnets epoxied to the head to hold my snips, pins and small tools like a seam ripper. These are worth their weight in gold for saving frustration.

Also notice that so much fabric has passed through this machine that it has worn the paint right off the sole plate and control head.

For anyone who has never used an industrial machine there really is no comparison with a home machine. These are made to sew perfectly all day long, everyday for years. Everything is repairable and adjustable. On my machines the pressure foot can lift over 5/8" high allowing even the thickest kilt to fit under without binding. You have to buy longer needles but they are readily available.

[ratspike]

Steve, thanks for the workspace photos. They're really helpful. I hadn't considered where my light was clamped to the table. Knowing me, I probably would have just been frustrated about my fabric bunching up but wouldn't think to move the stupid thing. The magnet on the machine head is brilliant too. I really like that extension table. Did you make/have it made or is that something commonly available from industrial sewing suppliers?

Having a machine that sits flush with the work surface is a little bit fantastic. It's pretty surprising what a huge difference some of these little things make.

[Elizabeth]

Congratulations on a great find! I've always wondered about an industrial machine since I tend to do "craft" (heavy) sewing instead of typical clothing material.

[ratspike]

It's definitely worth considering if the downsides aren't deal killers. I'm keeping one of my domestic machines for when I need to zigzag. Needing different needles and bobbins doesn't bother me, and it really doesn't take up a ton of space like I thought it would.

The upsides are huge IMO. Being able to use much heavier thread is nice. Presser feet are much less expensive than for domestics. The attachments that are used in industrial sewing to make work go faster though, that's the really cool stuff. I have a binding attachment for putting grosgrain and bias tape on seam edges that I love, but my hemmer is seriously baller. Running 8 yards of hem through a machine without having to press it first is a little bit beautiful. Older domestic machines can often use these too, but newer plastic ones typically can't.

[The Wizard of BC]

Actually an Industrial machine will handle any type of sewing you want. Even delicate or very fine items.
With the right needles and thread, silks and satins are easily, and regularly, sewn on these in factories around the world.

An industrial however will do this sewing day in and day out for years. If it breaks it can be repaired. If a part wears out it can be replaced.

The disadvantage is that most industrial machines are designed to do one job. A buttonhole machine does only buttonholes. My Pfaff's were the overall sewing workhorse of production factories for about 40 years, but they do not have a walking foot so don't sew handbags or sporrans as well as a machine designed for those jobs.

And once you get used to the knee lift on many industrial machines you will never want to reach around and lift the pressure foot with a lever ever again.