Enlarged Sett

[Tobus]

I'm thinking here of compensation for Dalgleish's cloth being only 15oz.

I think this is being made into more of a fuss than necessary. The difference between 15 oz cloth and 16 oz cloth (the "standard" for kilts) is largely academic. It's a 6.66% difference in numbers, and on top of that, it's only a "nominal" weight. Actual cloth weight will vary to the point where there's no real difference at all.

I'm betting you can't tell the difference between the two if you hold them in your hand or drape them to test the swish. A kiltmaker who works with tartan every day might be able to tell the difference since their hands and eyes are fine-tuned to it, but for the average kilt wearer, it's going to be pretty much unnoticeable. My 15 oz DC Dalgliesh kilt swishes every bit as good as my 16 oz Lochcarron Strome kilt. I really don't think any "compensation" has to be made in the kilt construction, although Barb can certainly correct me if I'm wrong.