Need Weaving Advice

[joyofweaving]

If anyone knows: I'm trying to find out the size of yarn and EPI I should be using when weaving a tartan intended to be made into a kilt. A friend asked me to weave their family plaid and have the cloth made into kilts for her husband and her son. I want to make sure I use the correct materials. I'm not finding much information about that on the 'net. I've written to scotsweb.uk, awaiting to see what they have to say. If I find out, I'll post it here. In the meantime, if anyone knows, would appreciate the info! Thanks!

[ASinclair]

Hello joyofweaving!



There are others among the Rabble that can answer your questions. If you haven't already done so. you may want to introduce yourself in the Newbies forum.

[KiltedKnome]

Have you tried contacting your local or regional weaving guild?

Also, there is this obviously old article but it might provide some information: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/w...s/bme_tart.pdf

[tulloch]

There are, here in the East at least, demonstrations of weaving at various highland festivals. You should attend and look for weaving and kilt-making demonstrations. You will find people.

You might also write to Harris Tweed and Knitwear, (http://www.harristweedandknitwear.co.uk/family.html), and Islay Woolen Mill, (http://www.islaywoollenmill.co.uk/), and ask them for some specifics. Harris is pretty heavy stuff generally but I think its great.

Barb Tewksbury of this site is also a wealth of information. Additionally there are a number of kilt-makers including the site's owner who can give you information.

Matt Newsome of New House Highland, (http://www.newhousehighland.com/), is also a wealth of information. Lots of stuff here!

Good luck. Looking forward to what you can come up with.

[Calgacus]

Definitely no expert, but I think about 40 epi is normal.

[sydnie7]

There's a thread on the forum about weaving a length of the Arizona tartan for kilting -- I'll try to search it out and post a link. I have nothing but admiration for your effort!

ETA: Here you go, ChromeScholar's wife at the loom. I expect they would share info.

[The Wizard of BC]

To try to help the OP with her question -

On a modern rapier loom 12 oz Poly/Rayon fabric has about 26 ends per cm or 66 per inch
13oz wool fabric has approx. 17-18 ends per cm or 68 per inch.
and 16oz wool fabric has about 14.5 ends per cm or 57 per inch.

This is using the weaving method where larger yarns are used to achieve the different weights.
Some weavers use the same yarns but increase or decrease the number of ends per inch to achieve the desired weights.

In the end the only things that matter are;

That the fabric has a good kilt selvedge.
That the fabric follows the published thread counts for the desired Tartan.
And that the fabric is the desired weight per linear yard. (1 fabric yard = 54" to 60' wide X 36' long)

A nice tight twill weave is also a sought after quality although plain weaves were used historically.

I hope this helps.

[figheadair]

Assuming that you're going to weave a heavy weight cloth (but today's standards) then you'll need a 2/16 crossbred worsted yarn sett at anything from 36-40 epi ideally. Once woven then just steam press, don't wash the cloth what ever you do. For a medium weight you'd meed something like a 2/28 set at about 48 epi.

[jhockin]

And that the fabric is the desired weight per linear yard. (1 fabric yard = 54" to 60' wide X 36' long) .

I assume that Steve meant 54" to 60" x 36" long ( not ' which stands for feet, instead of inches)?

[joyofweaving]

Thanks everyone! Seems I'm on the right track....anything around 36-40 EPI. Hooooboy. Hope I have enough heddles! Here's a Scott Family Tartan that I did with some 8/2 cotton set at 24 EPI. I did this one 'cos it's what Montgomery Scott wore on Star Trek as part of his dress uniform. I've always wanted to recreate it and I had some black and white left over that I wanted to use up. I love weaving plaids. I'm waiting for my business license to come in the mail any day now so that I can start buying that oh-so-expensive wool yarn at wholesale.
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