Which tweed for my jacket?

[Nathan]

Crail style jackets (without epaulettes or gauntlet or Braemar cuffs) are very traditional and appear in the Highlanders of Scotland. There are photos of these less adorned jackets from every era of kilt wearing.

I particularly like this one worn by the Duke of Rothsay, which has been featured on xmarks before.



Regarding the aforementioned "russet?" coloured jackets, perhaps it's the narrow shoulders that give them a dated look.

I'm just not fussy on the colour.

[creagdhubh]

You say this as if it's a bad thing!

I'm not a fan of contemporary styling. I do agree that there's no right or wrong here; it's just preferences. But on that subject, one other thing that struck me was your 7th photo that you commented on, which you said didn't appeal to you because of the colour of the two jackets. And while I do agree with you about those jackets not being particularly appealing, my reason is because they are very modern to my eye. The cuff detail (or lack thereof), the button choice, pocket flap shape, and the overall streamlined/simple presentation of these jackets just doesn't do anything for me, regardless of the colour. Granted, the photo was taken from a horribly unattractive angle, which doesn't help. But I rather tend to think those jackets, in those tweed colours, would look smashing if they were built with the kind of detail seen in more traditional Argyll jackets (i.e. horn buttons, gauntlet cuffs, shaped pocket flaps, epaulets, and a more tailored fit instead of a boxy/baggy cut).

I agree, Tobus. I was once a staunch wearer of tweed kilt jackets with plain (so-called, "Crail") cuffs, plan pocket flaps, and no epaulettes, but I'm not really that keen on that particular style any longer. Don't get me wrong, if done in a lovely tweed and tailored appropriately, that type of tweed kilt jacket is quite smart (think, HRH the Duke of Rothesay), just not for me. I wore this style of jacket, complete with a matching waistcoat, from Kinloch Anderson for quite some time. I think that I simply became bored with its plain design. Yes, yes, I am fully aware that sometimes less is more, but arguably in Highland tradition, sometimes more, well, is just more! The long-standing, wee details of a gauntlet (or the so-called, "Braemar") style cuff, scalloped pocket flaps with staghorn buttons, braided or flat-cloth epaulettes, etc, are all very appealing to me.

[McMurdo]

I agree, Tobus. I was once a staunch wearer of tweed kilt jackets with plain (so-called, "Crail") cuffs, plan pocket flaps, and no epaulets, but I'm not really that keen on that particylar style any longer. Don't get me wrong, if done in a lovely tweed and tailored appropriately, that type of tweed kilt jacket is quite smart (think, HRH the Duke of Rothesay), just not for me. I wore this style of jacket, complete with a matching waistcoat, from Kinloch Anderson for quite some time. I think that I simply became bored with its plain design. Yes, yes, I am fully aware that sometimes less is more, but arguably in Highland tradition, sometimes more, well, is just more! The long-standing, wee details of a gauntlet (or the so-called, "Braemar") style cuff, scalloped pocket flaps with staghorn buttons, braided or flat-cloth epaulets, etc, are all very appealing to me.

Kyle I could not agree more, all of my jackets have some cuff detail, be it gauntlet cuffs or Braemar cuffs, epaulets, scalloped pockets and horn buttons, for some reason they just look right to me.

[Calgacus]

I have seen a few 'plain' jackets that I like, but only a few. Analysing it, I find that there are basically two things I like about the ones that I have thought nice.

1. The cut. The ones I have liked have been very nicely cut, with a noticeable waist to them.

2. The tweed. The ones I have liked have all been made from what looks to be high quality cloth in attractive colours.

Without both of those things, it's never going to be a nice jacket in my view. What I really like is the same great cut and cloth but with gauntlet cuffs and everything else!

[Nathan]

I agree that the cut and the cloth make a big difference on whether i like a jacket or not but notwithstanding the fact that all of my jackets have these embellishments, I would proudly wear any of the outfits in the photos below. Most of these images came from CMcG's Less Can Be More thread. Incidentally, Colin himself has a lovat green Harris tweed kilt jacket with no epaulettes, crail cuffs and simple pocket flaps which is gorgeous and certainly meets Calgacus' criteria. The only pic I could find of it is altered to look vintage and doesn't show the jacket off to it's full potential. Maybe he'll post it if he sees this.

I just like both styles and I think nice cloth and fit are a requirement either way.









Lord_MacDonald.jpg

[creagdhubh]

I'm actually in the above bottom photo, Nathan, yet am out of sight - hidden behind the Bratach Uaine, or the Green Banner of the Clan Macpherson. Many Macpherson men, to include Cluny, prefer the plain tweed kilt jackets to their more "ornate" counterparts. However, when thinking about all the of the Macpherson men present at our annual gathering and rally in Scotland, I would say the ratio is about equal. Here's a wonderful photo of Cluny and Sandy Macpherson of Edinburgh, both wearing the same "Cluny's Tweed," yet Cluny's is plain, whilst Sandy's has all the bells and whistles, so to speak. In my opinion, and in agreement with the excellent points made by Calgacus, because of the cut and the type of tweed, both jackets look very, very smart.

[Calgacus]

Thinking about it, and thanks in part to those lovely photos above, I think the cut & cloth trump everything else. I'd definitely choose a well cut, well made plain jacket over a poorly cut or made jacket with the bells & whistles.

[David]

Thinking about it, and thanks in part to those lovely photos above, I think the cut & cloth trump everything else. I'd definitely choose a well cut, well made plain jacket over a poorly cut or made jacket with the bells & whistles.

I think you have pointed out what subconsciously is putting me off the "bells and whistles" jackets. The examples shown of B&W jackets that have been well cut and fitted are very attractive and make me re-consider my liking for a plain jacket. But i just cant get round my dislike of heavy looking and feeling gauntlet cuffs.

[TheOfficialBren]

I'm a man with simple needs. For my own preference I'd prefer a jacket like any of those pictured in that lovely retinue of photos above.

I LOVE the Crail-styled jacket. I'm a fan of Braemar and Argyl jackets, too. I just prefer the less-is-more approach.

With that said, I wouldn't mind a Crail that's reserved and an Argyl that's bold. You never know when the occasion will merit each.

[Nathan]

Getting back to the OP's question I think the lively discussion has proved that a) you'll never please everyone and b) either choice will have its admirers and c) A custom cut jacket will look like a million bucks on you regardless of which of these high quality tweeds you select.