Traditional Highland Civilian Dress: A Definition and Guide with Visual Examples

[CMcG]

Aye, Colin, but what aboot white hose?
...
I offer none of this as criticism, but only as a way to help you avoid doing your real work.

Well, as for my real work, maybe I can get some extra credit towards my PhD for all the Xmarking I've done over the last six years? A graduate diploma in THCD would be nice

I agree that it would be interesting if someone could collect the kind of data you are asking about and do some statistical analysis. That won't be me, however, because quantitative research methods aren't my department Qualitatively, perhaps someone with a collection of old catalogues from the major Highland outfitters and tailors might be able to parse their individual influence on THCD, but I'm happy enough just to recognize that it was there.

White hose are not only a rental/hire thing, but also a legacy of pipe bands. I maintain that participating in the tradition, however, means more than just wearing a kilt, and part of THCD is actually an opposition or resistance to both commercial standardization and the appearance of wearing a uniform. Again, it's a question of distinction.

That being said, the influence of rental/hire/pipers, as embodied in white hose, can't be denied. On the other hand, black is the new white, as shown in the very trendy rented outfits below. we'll have to see how these trends play out in the long term...

image from The Wedding Hire Company


Cultural cringe may be less obvious among devotees of the kilt, but there is a cross-section of folks in Scotland who are totally over the whole tartanry thing. I read a BBC Scotland article, for example, that suggested Scots identity was struggling with a "kilted straightjacket." Perhaps THCD may be more durable among Highlanders, rather than the nation as a whole?

I couldn't tell you exactly how much cultural cringe there was during the early 20th century, but I suspect it has long been a factor among people who take their kilting seriously. It is a double-edged sword to have Harry Lauder and Brigadoon, or more recently Braveheart, acting as ambassadors. Maybe it's good for sales of whisky, shortbread, and tartan tat, but it can also spread images of Highland attire as an antiquated costume, rather than a contemporary tradition.

That's an interesting question about the influence of the kilted diaspora on THCD. If such a thing exists, I think it might be relatively recent for several reasons. Back in the early 20th century the vast majority of Highland outfitters and tailors catering to civilians were probably still in Scotland, so that's where people were getting their kit. Air travel and circulation of media were also less prevalent. And I don't think I've seen near as many vintage, civilian photos from that period that were taken in the diaspora

Over the course of the 20th century that has changed, and in the information age of the early 21st century, the global village is far more connected and transnational. Just look at this article. It was written by a couple of Canadians with Scottish heritage and the pictures were supplied by an international group of THCD kilt wearers One could say we are at least participating in the tradition, though what influence Xmarks may have remains to be seen.