how to sew the Waist Band

[Order of the Kilt]

Hi,

I am not sure what it is called but does anyone have any instructions on how to sew the waist band on the kilt. Are there different thickness I can choose? I have seen women's kilted skirts are thicker whereas men's kilt are thin.

[KiltedKnome]

Are you trying to make a traditional-style kilt, or a contemporary-style kilt? The waistband construction is different on the two.

[Order of the Kilt]

A traditional kilt

[ratspike]

I do a narrow, half inch-ish waistband on my kilts even though they're very non-traditional and it's super easy. I also sew with a machine and use solid colors rather than tartan, so I don't have a patterns to line up. Since you don't mention what kind of kilt you're making this may or may not work for you.

I cut a 4" wide piece of fabric that's the same length as the kilt, and on the back side I'll mark a chalk line half an inch from one edge. Lay the waistband on the front of the kilt, good sides together, and zip a stitch along that chalk line. Fold the waistband up and press.

Now fold the waistband over the top of the kilt to the inside and tuck the raw edge and ends under. I press again at this point, to make the backside nice and crisp but also to help keep everything where I want it. Flip it back over to the front and run a stitch right under where the waistband is folded to lock it all down. You can hide that line of stitching if you want, what's called stitching in the ditch, or you can make it visible. I'll sometimes topstitch the waist band in two or three places, depending on the kilt.

I used lots of pins on waistbands when I was learning but now I never do. It's way easier and faster to not pin.

edit>>doh! I was typing as you were replying, so you can disregard all the above.

[Barb T]

I'm not sure what you mean by thicker or thinner. Do you mean wider? The top band on a trad kilt is just wide enough to enclose the raw edge at the top of the kilt - about 1/2". Just stitch a strip on, right sides together, about half an inch below the top edge of the kilt. Be sure to match the stripes in the apron - the rest won't match. Stretch a little across the top of the pleats so that the kilt is a bit wider at the top of the rise so that it will fit comfortably. Once stitched, fold the strip up and over the top edge of the kilt, and tack it down on the inside. Don't fold the raw edge of the strip over, or it will be too bulky. Cover the raw edge with the top of the lining on the inside of the kilt.

If you want specific instructions with diagrams, you can buy The Art of Kiltmaking, which shows the whole process of top band and lining.