Fabric Weight?

[OC Richard]

I have kilts in 13, 16, and the extra-heavy military weights.

I usually wear my 16oz IOS; it's my go-to favourite. It has around 7 yards so it's not overly heavy. To me that's the ideal kilt: nice 16oz cloth but slightly reduced yardage.

My 8-yard military weight kilt is considerably heavier but is quite comfortable to wear. I love it.

Once in a while I'll wear my 13oz and it feels flimsy and insubstantial. I suppose people get used to something and then anything else will feel strange.

There's a tartan I want, Portree, which only seems to be available in 11oz. I'm hesitating because I don't know if I want a kilt that's that light.

[Jack Daw]

7 of my 9 are 16/17 0z kilts, and 2 are military weight (Cam of Erracht and Black Watch). I don't have a 13 oz small kilt, but I do have a 13 oz large tartan that I wear as a great kilt for the rare occasions to a Ren Fest. For Texas, neither of the military weight get enough wear, and I wouldn't purchase and wear a 13 oz small kilt.

[Cyd]

Great advice Father Bill/California. Do a little maths. When people say, e.g., 13oz or 16 oz they are referring to the weight of one yard of double width fabric. For an 8 yard kilt that is a difference of no more that 12 oz total (everything else equal) in the finished kilt. The difference between a 5 yd and a 8 yd kilt of the same 16 oz fabric is going to be 24oz! (with waste, the weights will actually be a little less). The greatest source of heat retention in a kilt is in lots of deep knife pleats (tartans are made from wool that is WORSTED and tightly woven, not WOOLEN and loosely knitted like a sweater, so differences in tartan fabric weights are going to have much less effect on respective insulating properties). So if you want a lighter kilt, go with less yardage. If you want a cooler kilt, go with less yardage (fewer and shallower pleats) or an entirely different fabric. Changing wool weight is not going to have a big effect on weight or "coolness" unless the change is dramatic and light wools are more prone to wrinkle and don't hold a sharp pleat nearly as well.

I would also say that while it is certainly true heavier wool is less prone to wrinkle and holds a pleat better, frequently I think far too much is made of the difference in "swish" between a 16oz and a 13 oz kilt. A trained eye might notice, but most won't and you will be very happy with either product. So unless you can go to 20oz, don't worry about the difference between 16 and 13.

You will notice the difference in weight of a 16 v a 13 oz kilt however, as some have noted. I personally prefer the feel of a heavier kilt, but after wearing it for awhile I certainly can't say I even notice the difference with a 13 oz kilt. Besides, unless you weave your own cloth, you may not have a choice as many tartans, and almost all mills doing custom weaves, are only done in 13oz fabric.