Sett size is an interesting thing. Army kilts had (from what I've seen, Peter would know) small sett sizes in the early 19th century but by the end of the century the sett sizes had got quite large. I think my MOD Royal Stewart kilt has around a 9" sett.
Seems to me that in The Highlanders Of Scotland sett size varies more than it usually does nowadays, with heavy kilt weight fabric. (I'm talking ordinary tartans, not the rare exceptions with gigantic setts.)
Personally I prefer a man's kilt to have a nice large sett.
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