Stitching the edge of pleats on a utility kilt?

[eahuntley]

I've noticed some utility kilt makers stitch the outer edge of their pleats. Is this just to help the pleats hold their shape during laundering? Is their any disadvantage to doing this? I've just started playing around with making utility kilts, and I'm uncertain whether I should adopt this practice or not; I'd appreciate any input.

[The Wizard of BC]

The edge stitching of pleats is because of the fabric you are using. Cotton and Cotton blend fabrics like that used in most Utility style kilts does not hold a crease very well. This is why Cotton shirts need to be pressed over and over.

So, on fabrics like these you need to run a line of stitching along every crease. The outer and inner edges of all pleats. The edges of the aprons. Everywhere that there is a hard pressed edge.

Some makers stitch very close to the edge, some as far as 1/2" away. Some do it for the look they are trying to achieve, others take a more scientific approach.

Edge stitching can, if done one way, cause pleats to curl. Some makers actually induce curl into their pleats with edge stitching. Others do it to prevent curl by edge stitching a different way.

Wool does not require this edge stitching but Utility type kilt fabrics do.

[eahuntley]

This morning I washed the Kilt that I've been making(all finished, aside from belt loops and straps). It's made from Cotton Duck material, and doesn't have the edge stitching. It's now become abundantly clear why the edge stitching is common; This thing is a mess! I think I'll definitely try edge stitching on my next Kilt.

I normally wouldn't have washed something before I was completely done with it, but I had heard rumors that the new chalk I was using might not come out of the material. The chalk washed right out, and now I get some practice ironing pleats as well!

[tundramanq]

If you can source some cotton/rayon (aka Viscose) twill fabric with a high percentage of rayon it will hold crease in washing if you cool wash and hang dry with clothes pins holding the pleat ends in place - like Poly/Viscose. Both want some edge sharpening with an iron after a few washes. Sport Kilt used to use cotton/rayon fabric, but now they claim to be using poly/rayon fabric.
Pure cotton like pure polyester is supple and unable to hold a crease.
Rayon is derived from wood cellulose and gives the crease holding power.
I have never seen duck that wasn't 100% cotton.

[Lady Grey]

Everything Barb said
It may be possible to iron then stitch the pleats as is.
It won't look great but it will be usable.
Did you follow the X kilt instructions?

[eahuntley]

This particular kilt was started using an entirely different set of instructions, which lacks a lot of the features the X-kilt has. I've since scrapped that kilt and started over with a better material, along with the aid of the X-kilt manual. I also didn't read the entire manual until last night, so I have now found the section on edge stitching. I had previously not noticed edge stitching on many kilts, but I think I just wasn't looking for it.

[Pleater]

When making a kilt in a non malleable fabric such as cotton it pays to have the lower edge of the pleats - the hem or selvedge, sewn into a fold, even if you do not sew the edge. It makes it far easier to fold and press the pleat correctly after washing.

I use spray starch and iron on the inside of the kilt, usually when it is still slightly damp as that is easier.

I then use a pressing board, a piece of any rigid material - I use an offcut of hardboard, with a couple of layers of smooth material such as an old sheet wrapped around it to give something to pin onto.

You can then slide the board into each pleat, pin the lower edge where it is folded and get a good straight fold all the way to the fell or waistband before covering with a damp pressing cloth and using the iron.

I use perhaps four stitches to make a 'blip' in the edge of the fabric but not hinder the ironing, so it is easy to turn what is usually a whole mussed up set of pleats into something wearable in as short a time as possible.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: