New Project - advice & opinions please

[Lady Grey]

So, whilst surfing Xmarks, as it's far more interesting than housework...
I've been inspired by these two threads & garments.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-monaco-82190/

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...67/index2.html (The long red one worn casually)

Xmarks just doesn't like my iPad & photos however the fabric is a light cotton poly blend which will be perfect for summer.

A bit of research led me to learn the the Princess Charlene Kilt is a 21st Century kilt with an Empire waist. Not very practical for me in summer so I shall make it at the natural waist.
http://www.theroyalcouturier.com/201...r-with_31.html

Advice needed
- I'm thinking of a 13-14 inch Fell so it is smooth to below my buttocks
BUT I will only taper the top 7-8 inches (as I do for my usual kilts) for fit.
- Is this a reasonable idea?
- Is it doable?
- I'm planning on sewing each pleat below the fell like a casual/ utilikilt as I just don't think the fabric will hold the pleats once I start sitting, standing & moving.
- Would that work? Or look really awful?
- I was thinking of Silk Organza as a stabiliser? But I probably won't cut the fell pleats so it may not be needed?

I have a few other ideas for the apron but that will be a surprise.

Hopefully I can get some pictures loaded so I can get some opinions on pleating options.
LG

[Tarheel]

I am wrapping my mind around your design ideas. I believe I can visualize the two styles blended into one.
Will the final skirt hold together with important construction seams getting so much wear and tear by your rump? Material choice will be the key in my mind but wrinkling would be secondary to seams separating.

[Pleater]

The finer the fabric, the more ease it needs in order to survive wear.

I generally make the waist with an extra inch in each apron and 1and 1/2 or 2 inches across the pleats, then ease it in as I sew in a length of strong webbing to take all stress or strain off the fabric.

It seems to work well as my later kilts last far better than the first ones I made, even when constructed from similar or even the same fabrics.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Lady Grey]

Thanks Anne, great idea I will do that.
Tarheel, no seams as such, it will be made like a kilt I've got about 5mts of fabric I am also wondering if the machine sewn fell will be strong enough on the light summer fabric, hence the idea of an organza stabiliser?
It's the fell and tapering idea I'm not sure about... Time to experiment

Thank you

[room2ndfloor]

Unless you are very tall, a 13" or 14" fell is likely to cup under your rump. That cupping is neither attractive nor ladylike. As someone else remarked, every time you sit on a seam, you are stressing it. You may in time distort the fabric or even shred it.

You have a very good idea of using silk organza as an underlay. It is lightweight and strong, and it will slide gracefully as you walk.

[Lady Grey]

Thanks room2ndfloor.... I think I might make a test of the fell length in something else and see what happens. I'm 5'7" so kind of tall.
Do you think just tapering the top 7-8 inches to my waist will work?
* Damn... Just realised I'm going to have to take a good look at my bum?
Ugh.....

[Tarheel]

Let us look at the sample (practice piece) when you get to that point. I believe stabilizing the fell is the ticket, the more I wrap my mind around it.

[room2ndfloor]

Thanks room2ndfloor.... I think I might make a test of the fell length in something else and see what happens. I'm 5'7" so kind of tall.
Do you think just tapering the top 7-8 inches to my waist will work?
* Damn... Just realised I'm going to have to take a good look at my bum?
Ugh.....

I am also 5'7". The length of fabric to spread from my natural waist to the fullest part of my hips is 11". A woman would have to be over six feet tall to have 13" of length between her waist and hips. I know this because I have sewn for my very tall sisters.

The pleats should break open just at the point where the hips are largest. Higher than that, you will be adding volume that will make your skirt look like a Catholic schoolgirl's uniform. Lower than that, you will have the dreaded cupping effect.

For goodness sake, get a woman friend to help measure you. Accurate measurements are essential to any sewing success. The rule to measure twice, cut once applies with equal force to sewing as to carpentry.

[Lady Grey]

Wow, where did time go? I started this project in Nov and it's still not finished.
Here is the front/apron with wave tucks for some fun and some of the skirt that has been stitched so far.


The light fabric is a pain to work with so I'm not stressing about patterns lining up - just doing my best.
I doubt very much that it will hold the pleats (in fact I'm sure it won't) but as a long light summer skirt it should be rather nice and cool to wear in the hot hot weather. I hope to have it done soon so I can wear it at the Marybrough Games on New Year's Day.