The finer the fabric, the more ease it needs in order to survive wear.
I generally make the waist with an extra inch in each apron and 1and 1/2 or 2 inches across the pleats, then ease it in as I sew in a length of strong webbing to take all stress or strain off the fabric.
It seems to work well as my later kilts last far better than the first ones I made, even when constructed from similar or even the same fabrics.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.
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