I wear my kilts (all Newsome 4-yard box-pleats) with the selvedge about an inch above the top of my kneecap. That comes from my habit in reenacting of wearing my belted plaid a bit above the kneecap for freedom of motion. In the pre-Culloden days, some Highlanders were reported (see Burt's "Letters....") to wear their plaids so short as to be considered indecent by Lowlanders and English downhill from them.