Re-doing pleats on a box pleat?

[Michael A]

Hi all, I'm just asking for some advice about the pleating I did for this in the picture below. Despite taking care to keep the margins straight on each pleat, once it was done, there were some uneven folds. I (somewhat, maybe, foolishly) took the advice of another kiltmaker who presses as she goes, and lightly pressed the pleats after basting. I have just got past the stage of basting the shaping in the apron and underapron and am about to do the steeking.

You can see from the picture that on one pleat, the most egregiously affected, I folded it closer and stitched a running basting stitch parallel to the pleat to hold it. I have also seen other kiltmakers who make traditional box pleats baste every pleat parallel to the pleat, rather than the usual basting that otherwise dominates the picture.

I am asking therefore, should I remove all the basting, press out the creases, and re-do the basting? What say ye?

[Barb T]

I think you won't be happy with it if you don't take out the basting, press everything flat, and then baste it back together again before you press. And there's nothing wrong with pressing the pleats before the kilt is finished, but it's really hard to do a good job until you've done the steeking and stabilizer. On the latter, it's really easy to stretch the kilt at the waist and press in the stretch if you haven't put in the stabilizer first. It's really tough to get it back to the right size when you put the stabilizer in after pressing. And, if you haven't basted the shaping in the apron and underapron edges next to the pleats, be careful to keep your iron off the apron and underapron - press only the pleats in the back of the kilt.

My experience is that there is no need to take the time to baste every pleat edge. If you've done a good job with each pleat in basting horizontally, as you've done, it's unnecessary. And if you baste each pleat edge and then press, you will press basting stitch marks into the edge of pleats, which you then have to deal with after taking the basting out.

Just baste horizontally after you stitch the pleats. Once you're ready to press the pleats (at least have the steeking and stabilizer done), you can lay the kilt out for pressing with the pleats parallel to the length of the ironing board, make sure everything looks really good, and then squirt a little steam over a couple of pleats to start to set the pleats. Check to make sure all is still OK, and do a real press. Do only a couple pleats at a time, then move the kilt for the next couple. Check, straighten, squirt some steam, check again, and press those two pleats.

[Michael A]

Thanks for that Barb. I did stabiliser and canvas yesterday. I have finished the apron facing and have yet to do the underapron facing. I have already basted in the shaping for the apron/underapron.

So when I get home at lunch today I still think I have the chance to remove bastion, flatten, re-baste and press again. That should take the afternoon but it will be worth it.

[Michael A]

I took out the basting, pressed it flat, re-basted (pinning then basting, two pleats at a time) then re-pressed, lightly steaming first as you indicated, Barb.

I am much happier with the result.

[Barb T]

Looks good! I knew you'd be happier!