Cutting pleats in a low yardage knife pleat

[Michael A]

Thanks Bonnie.

Since this was made with a strap hole rather than a hidden strap/buckle, I will preserve the one that is there. But in all other respects I shall follow your tips.

Thanks again,

Michael

[The Wizard of BC]

The purpose of the stabilizer is to take the horizontal stress of strapping the kilt on. If, when you pull on the buckles you see the kilt stretching and the stress transferred to the fabric or the stitching - Then you need the stabilizer.

If you pull on the straps and see the apron fabric stretching and distorting you need the stabilizer.

The purpose of interfacing is to give vertical stiffness and shape to the kilt. If you can stand the Fell of the kilt up, and it stands on its own, you do not need interfacing. If the Fell does not stand up, then the kilt will hang better with the addition of interfacing.

If when wearing the kilt you see puckering of the aprons then the kilt will hang better with the addition of interfacing.

Together the stabilizer and interfacing allow the outer fabric to drape naturally and swish properly.

The reason for cutting away the fabric behind the Fell is to thin the back of the kilt. If not thinned the back may be overly thick causing sweating and the dread "pillow butt". If the back is already thin enough, due to less fabric as in a box pleated kilt, thinning may not be required.

The reason the internal elements are left out of a low yardage kilt is simply that these kilts are made and sold to be as low in cost as possible. The way the cost is kept low is not just because less fabric need be bought, but leaving out the internal elements saves material and labor costs.

I have always found it odd. Those kilts that do not have the cut-away pleats and the internal elements will still have a liner installed. The only purpose for the liner is to hide all that 'stuff" inside a well made kilt. It is almost like the liner is put in simply to deceive those who do now know how a well made kilt is constructed. (I heard one maker of these kilts explain that the liner was there to keep the kilt clean. To which I could only reply -"Well, if that were true, then the liner would be removable and washable?")