Black Watch Tartan choice

[Steve Ashton]

Richard, that's not the case, for example; here are the full sett sizes for the 42nd from Wilsons' 1819 KPB.



Only one setting for Fine Kilts and Fine Plaids is under 10 inches. I've never counted a sample of Government No1 but I suspect that it was something like Wilsons' Coarse Kilt setting in which case, allowing for the heavier No1, the sett would have been at least as big if not bigger.

The current Royal Regt. of Scotland kilts are in the Govt. Sett 1A (Black Watch)



The Sett size is 13.5 inches or 32.49cm

[Mike S]

and Grants, I think.

You are correct.

[OC Richard]

Richard, that's not the case, for example; here are the full sett sizes for the 42nd from Wilsons' 1819 KPB.

Attachment 32453

Only one setting for Fine Kilts and Fine Plaids is under 10 inches. I've never counted a sample of Government No1 but I suspect that it was something like Wilsons' Coarse Kilt setting in which case, allowing for the heavier No1, the sett would have been at least as big if not bigger.

Goes to show one shouldn't believe everything one reads!

I have seen, both in vintage photos and paintings, that civilian sett sizes varied widely in the 19th century, but I've not noticed any pattern to the variance. In The Highlanders Of Scotland some of the mens' kilts have huge setts, some quite small.

What of that oft-seen late 18th century Gordon Highlanders kilt? The sett-size looks considerably smaller than one sees later in the 19th century.

[figheadair]

Goes to show one shouldn't believe everything one reads!

I have seen, both in vintage photos and paintings, that civilian sett sizes varied widely in the 19th century, but I've not noticed any pattern to the variance. In The Highlanders Of Scotland some of the mens' kilts have huge setts, some quite small.

What of that oft-seen late 18th century Gordon Highlanders kilt? The sett-size looks considerably smaller than one sees later in the 19th century.

This is an interesting kilt for a number of reasons. Alas, I don't have a better quality image to check the threadcount but even in the one it is possible to see that it has 6 half setts. Wilson's included counts for 4, 5, 6, 7 ,8 and 10 half setts woven on the 24 reed as well as larger plaid settings comparable with their 42nd sett size.

The tartan has yellow silk stripes and the blue is purplish suggesting that it was dyed with Logwood rather than Indigo. All in all this looks like officer's privately purchased material rather that issue cloth.

We know very little about how the military wore the various settings listed in the 1819 and by that date some of them may have been intended for the civilian fashion market. Lt Bramwell's kilt and fly plaid made in 1814 is definitely Wilsons' cloth with 8 half setts so perhaps that was the standard parade sett size at the time of Waterloo, or perhaps he was free to choose which size he wanted. That seems unlikely but two surviving kilts from the same regiment within 20 years of it's foundation is unique and tells a story of some variation at that early date.

[Farmhand]

Peter, your humor is always welcome.

Derek, I expect (my own thoughts included) military veterans like the connection to the kilt. Many of us like the color combination. A traditional kilt with a high rise waist and heavy material fit our idea of military gear.

Though I am not, some are even Campbell clansmen.

I am of Clan Colquhoun, but for daily wear, I use surplus kilts in the Black Watch Tartan for several reasons:

A. I like it. Its dark, (like me) subdued and goes well with lots of my clothing. I also hunt in it.

B. It is, as has been noted, military weight and quality, and as a US Army veteran, appreciated for those qualities.

C. It is the most common surplus kilt you can find now, especially since the Regiments have been amalgamated.

D. it is extremely cost effective. What Scot can pass up a bargain like that?