Here is a kilt to give you a visual example.

This kilt is made from 16oz fabric in the Black Watch Tartan, Weathered version.

This kilt is pleated to the black stripe which is present twice in each Sett.



The waist rear split of this kilt is 17 inches or 43.18cm
The hip rear split of the kilt is 25.5 inches or 64.8cm.

I had a lot of this fabric and because I was not limited by a particular amount of fabric I could use as much fabric as I want. I chose to make 34, 3/4 inch (1.9cm) pleats.

Each pleat is tapered from 1.9cm at the hip to 1.27cm at the waist.

I sewed the first pleat to the second holding 1.9cm in each pleat. When that was done I picked up the third pleat, held its width to 1.9cm and sewed the second to the third.