Bespoke Ghillies - still possible?

[Tobus]

If it were me, I'd start with a maker who already makes and understands ghillie brogues, and ask if they can make a pair with thinner soles that are more like an opera pump, or whatever descriptor suits your goals. For example, Thistle Shoes make a nice quality ghillie brogue with Goodyear welted soles. As long as you find the upper to be to your liking, it wouldn't hurt to ring them up and ask about a custom pair with thinner sole. Or simply buy a pair and have any cobbler replace the sole to whatever you desire.

It does appear that most makers these days are doing rugged/outdoor-style ghillie brogues with thick rubber soles and metal plates like one might expect a piper to wear. And the vintage brands/makers appear to be long gone. You might try looking around the web for a used pair of older ones that still have some life in them. For example, I managed to find some older ghillie brogues with hard leather soles that are thinner than most modern brands. They were made by "Keltic - The Scottish Shoe", which is apparently no longer in business. I don't lace them up my legs, but choose to wear them like a typical brogue. These are probably still thicker than you're looking for, but again, you might be better off starting with an existing upper and simply having someone replace the sole rather than trying to find someone who will make a custom pair from scratch.

These are my vintage Keltic ghillie-brogues for reference.

[RichardtheLarge]

Let me start with a blanket warning...bespoke shoes are usually incredibly expensive. With that said, I’ve seen similar brogues from Carmina shoemaker and Crockett and Jones, sometimes as off the rack or MTO models (less expensive options than bespoke).

[Graeme H]

If you are planning on going down the route of true bespoke for your shoes, I would suggest that Foster & Son on Jermyn Street in London are the best people for the job given the traditional nature. As Richard correctly pointed out, a proper pair of bespoke shoes will be expensive (around £2500) and will take at least 6 months to make. They will however, as long as they are cared for, last a lifetime and so can be viewed (as a bespoke suit) to be a very good investment. How often you will wear them is another matter entirely.

There's a lot of buzz in the bespoke world around a company called 'Vass', a shoemaker that makes MTO and bespoke shoes in Budapest to an extremely high standard, all hand welted and stitched. From what I've seen their product is definitely up there with the likes of F&S, Edward Green et al, at a significantly lower cost. They have a concession at Cad & The Dandy on Savile Row FYI. Unsurprisingly, I've not seen a Ghillie from them but I have no doubt that they could accommodate you. A particularly nice touch is the bespoke pair of shoe trees that they supply with every order. The website is vass-shoes.com

I'm consistently seeing their work on the instagram feeds of bespoke tailors, shirtmakers and cobblers who hold them in very high regard, although I haven't seen their work in the flesh.

[Randy McIntosh]

Try Avriel, I got my dress brogues from them.

[CypherMagnum]

Thanks to all of you! I really appreciate the feedback.

I'm looking into some of the options presented, and waiting for response from a few internet-facing companies that seem to be likely to entertain the work. I'll certainly let you all know as soon as I have anything resembling a positive response.

-C

[RichardtheLarge]

If you are planning on going down the route of true bespoke for your shoes, I would suggest that Foster & Son on Jermyn Street in London are the best people for the job given the traditional nature. As Richard correctly pointed out, a proper pair of bespoke shoes will be expensive (around £2500) and will take at least 6 months to make. They will however, as long as they are cared for, last a lifetime and so can be viewed (as a bespoke suit) to be a very good investment. How often you will wear them is another matter entirely.

There's a lot of buzz in the bespoke world around a company called 'Vass', a shoemaker that makes MTO and bespoke shoes in Budapest to an extremely high standard, all hand welted and stitched. From what I've seen their product is definitely up there with the likes of F&S, Edward Green et al, at a significantly lower cost. They have a concession at Cad & The Dandy on Savile Row FYI. Unsurprisingly, I've not seen a Ghillie from them but I have no doubt that they could accommodate you. A particularly nice touch is the bespoke pair of shoe trees that they supply with every order. The website is vass-shoes.com

I'm consistently seeing their work on the instagram feeds of bespoke tailors, shirtmakers and cobblers who hold them in very high regard, although I haven't seen their work in the flesh.

Vass makes stunning shoes, no question, and I imagine they could swing a bespoke pair based on photos and sketches. Really, though, there are a multitude of makers who I’m sure would get it right. I can’t imagine Gaziano and Girling, or Lobb, for example, putting together anything less than a gorgeous pair of brogues.

Do you have experience with leatherwork or cobbling, Graeme? What is the bulk of your work? I would guess suiting and shirting. I’ve done a smidgeon of leatherwork; bags and wallets and the like. At some point I might like to try my hand at a pair of shoes or a Rob Roy sporran, but I’ve never done it before.

[Graeme H]

Vass makes stunning shoes, no question, and I imagine they could swing a bespoke pair based on photos and sketches. Really, though, there are a multitude of makers who I’m sure would get it right. I can’t imagine Gaziano and Girling, or Lobb, for example, putting together anything less than a gorgeous pair of brogues.

Do you have experience with leatherwork or cobbling, Graeme? What is the bulk of your work? I would guess suiting and shirting. I’ve done a smidgeon of leatherwork; bags and wallets and the like. At some point I might like to try my hand at a pair of shoes or a Rob Roy sporran, but I’ve never done it before.

G&G Might possibly be outside of their comfort zone but I can imagine John Lobb making a fantastic Ghillie! Alternatively there are a lot of Italian trained Japanese makers who do absolutely beautiful work, although they are expensive.

I have a tremendous love of leather - shoes, jackets, wallets etc... However other than the occasional set of leather ends for some bespoke braces I have very little experience working with it. My experience is almost entirely with suits and separates, and in particular in the West end and Military styles. I came into shirt tailoring only a few years ago and do very little needlework on them other than alterations. I have more and more shirt clients however, as it's a relatively low-cost route into the bespoke world considering that you can easily spend upwards of £100 on a store bought shirt that doesn't fit properly! And arguably it makes the most difference vs ready-to-wear as now there are many made-to-measure and luxury guys doing a good job of getting a suit to fit (talking only of fit here, not necessarily quality).

[piperdbh]

We had a member here, DFW11, who made terrific shoes of all kinds. You might send him a PM & see what he says.

[Good Egg]

If you're looking for a more formal brogue for black tie events perhaps you should consider buckle brogues with diced or tartan hose.

I confess that I have a pair of ghillie brogues but I don't wear them very often. In the day I wear brogues, highland and in the evening I wear buckle brogues. The ghillies are neither fish, nor fowl nor good red meat.

They do have the advantage that everyone wears them so you will be in with the crowd.

[Toxpert]

If you plan on Scottish Country Dancing, I recommend you look at James Senior for Scottish ghillies. These are soft shoes and soft soled.
I have used this brand for almost 40 years.
Affordable, comfortable and simply the best.