Oxfords with kilt

[Graeme H]

Lovely to see Mr Ashton dropping serious knowledge regarding shoe construction!

It all comes down to formality really - the more broguing on a shoe, the more casual it can be considered. Generally full brogues are made from grain leather and typically have a heavy "storm-welted" sole. More and more wingtips are showing up in calf leathers and with formal construction but generally are used fairly casually. Plain toecaps are the most formal shoe regardless of whether they are Oxford or Derby construction, I tend to recommend a Derby if a customer has a particularly wide foot as the open lacing is perhaps a little more comfortable.

I've learnt something today; I wasn't aware that there was any disdain for the Ghillie brogue! I suppose I'm so used to seeing it (I believe it to be the only option for those hiring Highland dress in the UK, unless a gentleman has his own shoes), and although I tell customers to consider a highly polished semi-brogue or plain toecap with Highland wear for formal events, there is no shortage of requests for the Ghillie.

I'll do a shoecare post at some point in the near future for those that wish to see the glacage process for shining a formal pair of shoes.

[RichardtheLarge]

I do it all the time. I usually wear black cap toes for black tie events instead of ghillie brogues. I find the ghillie lacing fiddly, unreliable, and uncomfortable.

[RichardtheLarge]

Lovely to see Mr Ashton dropping serious knowledge regarding shoe construction!

It all comes down to formality really - the more broguing on a shoe, the more casual it can be considered. Generally full brogues are made from grain leather and typically have a heavy "storm-welted" sole. More and more wingtips are showing up in calf leathers and with formal construction but generally are used fairly casually. Plain toecaps are the most formal shoe regardless of whether they are Oxford or Derby construction, I tend to recommend a Derby if a customer has a particularly wide foot as the open lacing is perhaps a little more comfortable.

I've learnt something today; I wasn't aware that there was any disdain for the Ghillie brogue! I suppose I'm so used to seeing it (I believe it to be the only option for those hiring Highland dress in the UK, unless a gentleman has his own shoes), and although I tell customers to consider a highly polished semi-brogue or plain toecap with Highland wear for formal events, there is no shortage of requests for the Ghillie.

I'll do a shoecare post at some point in the near future for those that wish to see the glacage process for shining a formal pair of shoes.

IME, rules of formality for broguing exist in Englishwear but not in highlandwear. Maybe this is because broguing is an iconically Scottish convention, but both ghillie brogues and the Queen Anne buckle shoe are fully wingtipped and brogued and are considered the most formal kilt shoes available. Thistle shoes sells both styles and they are as brogued as shoes can be.

One exception might be the single buckle Jacobite shoe I occasionally see around, but it doesn’t look nearly as formal as the Queen Anne buckle brogue to my eyes (maybe because of the huge squared toe). They don’t sell them in my size, regardless, so I went with the Queen Anne.

[Downunder Kilt]

For information on the metal plates on the toes and heels you may find this site of some use http://www.blakeys-segs.co.uk/

[RichardtheLarge]

What is it about Ghillie Brogues that some of you find so offensive?..Is it the long laces? I'm sure you can use shorter ones........is it the visibility of the kilt hose between the eyelets?......If you like the hose above the shoes , why not in the shoes? I'm not trying to be facetious about this, but some of you come on like you have dog crap on your shoes if you were to wear them.......I really am curious why such disparaging remarks are made about them......I look forward to reading the serious replies to my query......Thanx in advance

I’ll try an answer because I really do dislike my ghillie brogues:

-I don’t care for the lacing system. I think it looks interesting and festive, but either the laces are too snug and are digging into my skin, or else they’ve loosened a bit and are dropping down my leg.

-I miss having a tongue on the shoe. In my experience a wide, sturdy tongue is very helpful for fit and comfort.

-it’s very difficult to find a pair of ghillies that are constructed to an equal level of quality to other types of oxfords or dress boots available. The typical ghillies that I see around aren’t Goodyear welted and are made of relatively low quality leathers. The attitude seems to be that they “aren’t worth a re-sole”.

All that said, I recognize and accept that they are a symbolic and uniquely Scottish shoe appropriate for a wide variety of occasions.

[Terry Searl]

I’ll try an answer because I really do dislike my ghillie brogues:

-I don’t care for the lacing system. I think it looks interesting and festive, but either the laces are too snug and are digging into my skin, or else they’ve loosened a bit and are dropping down my leg.

-I miss having a tongue on the shoe. In my experience a wide, sturdy tongue is very helpful for fit and comfort.

-it’s very difficult to find a pair of ghillies that are constructed to an equal level of quality to other types of oxfords or dress boots available. The typical ghillies that I see around aren’t Goodyear welted and are made of relatively low quality leathers. The attitude seems to be that they “aren’t worth a re-sole”.

All that said, I recognize and accept that they are a symbolic and uniquely Scottish shoe appropriate for a wide variety of occasions.

Thank-you for your comment.....I haven't experienced any of the problems with fit and comfort you have so it never dawned on me that such problems could arise.....I do agree that the laces can be a bother but that can be easily rectified with shorter laces......I found mine in thrift shop for £12.00 and according to the internet sites the brand is of a very good quality.......but even at a lesser quality, I doubt I could ever find black dress brouges at that price AND MADE IN SCOTLAND......all our "stuff" is coming from China and it amazes me that everything and I do mean everything has NO QUALITY in it's manufacture

[RichardtheLarge]

Thank-you for your comment.....I haven't experienced any of the problems with fit and comfort you have so it never dawned on me that such problems could arise.....I do agree that the laces can be a bother but that can be easily rectified with shorter laces......I found mine in thrift shop for £12.00 and according to the internet sites they are of superior quality.......but even at a lesser quality, I doubt I could ever find black dress brouges at that price AND MADE IN SCOTLAND......all our "stuff" is coming from China and it amazes me that everything and I do mean everything has NO QUALITY in it's manufacture

I have very occasionally seen some luxury UK or Continental shoemakers making a pair of ghillies, although they may bear little or no resemblance to what we’ve come to associate with the term. The manufacturers I’m thinking of are Crockett and Jones and Carmina shoemaker. Bespoke is always another possibility if the sky is the limit. The models that I’ve seen often have tongues, short laces, and sometimes little to no broguing. C&J have also produced a few Ghillie Boots over the years.

[Graeme H]

IME, rules of formality for broguing exist in Englishwear but not in highlandwear. Maybe this is because broguing is an iconically Scottish convention, but both ghillie brogues and the Queen Anne buckle shoe are fully wingtipped and brogued and are considered the most formal kilt shoes available. Thistle shoes sells both styles and they are as brogued as shoes can be.

One exception might be the single buckle Jacobite shoe I occasionally see around, but it doesn’t look nearly as formal as the Queen Anne buckle brogue to my eyes (maybe because of the huge squared toe). They don’t sell them in my size, regardless, so I went with the Queen Anne.

Very interesting insight, thanks for the knowledge!

[FossilHunter]

I have very occasionally seen some luxury UK or Continental shoemakers making a pair of ghillies, although they may bear little or no resemblance to what we’ve come to associate with the term. The manufacturers I’m thinking of are Crockett and Jones and Carmina shoemaker. Bespoke is always another possibility if the sky is the limit. The models that I’ve seen often have tongues, short laces, and sometimes little to no broguing. C&J have also produced a few Ghillie Boots over the years.

I had to look those shoes up and I quite like the look.



If I find some reasonably priced ghillies I like I will probably shorten the laces and tie them like that now.

[Terry Searl]

I had to look those shoes up and I quite like the look.



If I find some reasonably priced ghillies I like I will probably shorten the laces and tie them like that now.

Those really are a lovely looking shoe.....amazing how the shoe changes in appearance with a tongue of a different shade is added.......and of course the shorter laces