What Collar/Shirt with Sherrifmuir and/or Ruche Cravat?

[RichardtheLarge]

A quick search found this, from an earlier X Marks thread, put together by Matt Newsome to show several Sheriffmuir looks:



In the early years of the 20th century several new Evening Dress jacket styles appeared, first the Prince Charlie Coatee, then the Montrose Doublet and Kenmore Doublet. I have early catalogues which speak of the Prince Charlie Coatee as being a new thing, and document the appearance of the Montrose and Kenmore. I'll have to check and see if I can get an idea of when the Sheriffmuir appeared. (Edit: looked over a few catalogues from c1930 through c1955 and there are no Sheriffmuirs, only Standard Doublets, Prince Charlie Coatees, Montrose "coats", and Kenmore/Morar Doublets.)

In any case it's a 20th century invention (though perhaps "inspired" by some 19th century jackets) so there's no "tradition" per se about what to wear with it, other than to say that lace jabots were very popular in the first half of the 20th century, and you see lace jabots worn with Prince Charlie Coatees, Montrose Doublets, and Kenmore Doublets. So I would suspect the same with the Sheriffmuir.

Ruche ties AFAIK are a quite recent invention, appearing at the end of the 20th century, and were therefore not part of the original intended look of any of our Evening Dress styles.

But that's just history stuff. People wear what they want.

What is your opinion of his tweed formal doublet? This always struck me as a bit of a bugbear, but maybe I’m just unfamiliar with the customary use of fabrics. I assumed that a formal doublet wanted to be velvet or barathea/worsted wool, whereas tweed would be for a daywear coat/jacket/cloak/vest. I’m familiar with tweed kilts in daywear, but I think they might look a bit off in a formal setting.

[Hirsty]

Personally I feel tartan, barathea or velvet in any reasonable colours is the way to go formally for jackets, doublets and coatees. Waistcoats can be in these materials and also white marcella.