Box versus Knife Pleats

[shamrock715]

Since I'm new to possibly purchasing a kilt, I wanted to see if there are any advantages/disadvantages to a box pleat versus a knife pleat. Very soon I'll be purchasing my first kilt and I'm partial to the box pleat myself. I like it because it's more subdued looking and I really don't need the swing that a knife pleat would give.

My big question is is there a change in movement/fit/comfort with a box pleat? I've tried on a knife pleat before and it's very comfortable but I've never tried on a box pleat. As said above, I'm just partial to the look.

Thanks,
Matt

[RichardtheLarge]

Since I'm new to possibly purchasing a kilt, I wanted to see if there are any advantages/disadvantages to a box pleat versus a knife pleat. Very soon I'll be purchasing my first kilt and I'm partial to the box pleat myself. I like it because it's more subdued looking and I really don't need the swing that a knife pleat would give.

My big question is is there a change in movement/fit/comfort with a box pleat? I've tried on a knife pleat before and it's very comfortable but I've never tried on a box pleat. As said above, I'm just partial to the look.

Thanks,
Matt

Matt,

If I were ordering a new kilt today, it would probably be high yardage and box pleated. This is a bit hard to describe, but due to the overlap the box pleats “solidify” the fabric and it doesn’t hang as loosely as the unidirectional knife pleating. This can be especially useful in the wind.

[shamrock715]

Matt,

If I were ordering a new kilt today, it would probably be high yardage and box pleated. This is a bit hard to describe, but due to the overlap the box pleats “solidify” the fabric and it doesn’t hang as loosely as the unidirectional knife pleating. This can be especially useful in the wind.

What I'm reading out of this is that the box pleat can be better in the wind with less blowing around but it doesn't seem that it restricts movement at all. Am I reading that right?

Thanks,
Matt

[Father Bill]

I have one of each. The knife-pleat has the traditional appearance & yes, the "swish". The box is lighter to wear and yes, very flat in appearance. I don't really notice any difference in the "feel" when I'm wearing them.

[RichardtheLarge]

What I'm reading out of this is that the box pleat can be better in the wind with less blowing around but it doesn't seem that it restricts movement at all. Am I reading that right?

Thanks,
Matt

Yes. But as Bill has pointed out, with less lateral movement of the layers of fabric comes less “swing”, which for many kilt wearers is of great importance!

[Liam]

I too have both. The 8 yd knife pleat kilts rarely need any repressing or steaming, while the 4 yd box pleats need the occasional bit of attention if you are sitting a lot. A 4-5 yd knife pleat kilt also similar issues. The box pleat kilt uses about half the amount of material as the 8 yd kilt and therefore is less expensive and lighter. I like both styles, although if I were to chose only one it would be the 8 yd knife pleat.

[Jumpmonkey]

I too have both. The 8 yd knife pleat kilts rarely need any repressing or steaming, while the 4 yd box pleats need the occasional bit of attention if you are sitting a lot. A 4-5 yd knife pleat kilt also similar issues. The box pleat kilt uses about half the amount of material as the 8 yd kilt and therefore is less expensive and lighter. I like both styles, although if I were to chose only one it would be the 8 yd knife pleat.

That's very interesting Liam. I was under the impression that box-pleats were more comfortable when seated, and were less apt to wrinkle from the same. As a lot of my job involves being planted on my posterior I was leaning that way (at least partly) for maintenance sake. You're saying I'd be better served by an 8 yarder for that?

[Tarheel]

Like the good father and Liam, I have both types. Each kilt has its place in my world. The box pleat for its lightweight, flexibility and style for the cut. I like the knife pleat kilt for the heft, swish and ease of maintenance. Both of my kilts are tartan and can be interchangeable for most events. I get to choose which will fit the mood I'm in.

[The Wizard of BC]

There are many ways to fold fabric into pleats.

One way has been nicknamed an 8 yard knife pleated kilt.
You should be able to see how many layers of fabric end up stacked on top of each other.



A box pleated kilt is nicknamed a 4 yard kilt because the average way to create box pleats results in only 3 layers of fabric.



When we make a kilt the front is made the same. Only the pleated part in the back changes.

In general an 8 yard knife pleated kilt will weight about 4 pounds and will give the maximum swish.
A 4 yard box pleated kilt, using about half the fabric, will weight about 2 pounds. As the swish is a factor of the weight of fabric and the length of the pleats a box pleated kilt will usually not swish quite as well as a knife pleated kilt.

But these are not the only way to fold fabric into pleats.

If you wish to reduce the amount of yardage used (keeping the cost of the kilt down) you could make each pleat wider. This is what is nicknamed a 5 yard or casual kilt.

These can also be referred to as Rugged Knife Pleats.



We can also increase the amount of fabric by creating "Un-even leg box pleats". These are sometimes called "Military Box Pleats".



Box pleats will result in a kilt that is a little more balanced front to back than a knife pleated kilt but will swish a little less.
Box pleats are also very flattering on the female form.

Some people may choose to have their kilt box pleated or rugged pleated in an effort to reduce the overall cost or perhaps they live somewhere that it gets hot and they would prefer a little less fabric.

[RichardtheLarge]

I should clarify that I was talking about military box pleats in my posts above, which Steve has demonstrated with photos.