Wearing the Montrose Doublet

[Hirsty]

I always think it is better to be over dressed than under dressed.

As said above, a jabot with a Motrose Doublet but cuffs are optional.

One thing to note is that a velvet doublet is very hot, best to just wear a tee shirt underneath. You can alway pin the cuffs on to the inside of the sleeves.

[McMurdo]

As others have said with a jabot and cuffs, I have a vintage Montrose Doublet that I have worn to many Burns Nights in the past. The formality level is White Tie, however I have worn it when Black Tie would do as I wanted to.



I got the jabot and cuffs from Lady Chrystel and am still very happy with them.

[OC Richard]

As we all know a suite of new Evening jackets appeared in the early 20th century.

What's cool is that one can get an idea of when the various styles appeared from old catalogues.

My earliest catalogues only have The Doublet ("suitable for older gentlemen") and The Coatee (or the Prince Charlie Coatee, "suitable for younger men" it being a recent invention).

Then The Montrose appears, mentioned "for youths"



AFAIK it's the first Evening Dress jacket made specifically to be worn with dirk belt and lace jabot.

McMurdo has of course nailed the look to perfection!

Though dirk belts and jabots were sometimes worn with the 19th century Evening jackets (Doublet and Argyll) by the early 20th century belts had ceased to be worn with those, and jabots rarely.

BTW the Montrose isn't a "doublet" strictly speaking, but what in the 19th century would be called a "shell jacket".

I used to have one in claret velvet... happily no photos exist...

[MacCathmhaoil]

The dress Argyle for evening wear in the advertisement appears to have satin lapels, not seen very frequently today unless a bespoke jacket I'd guess.

[OC Richard]

The dress Argyle for evening wear in the advertisement appears to have satin lapels, not seen very frequently today unless a bespoke jacket I'd guess.

The only shop I've seen carry Evening Dress Argylls as a standard thing is Geoffrey Tailor.

They're made of fine Barathea in dark green, dark blue, claret, etc and have Russia Braid button loops on the cuffs and flaps, quite elegant. (Tweed Day jackets and most black Argyll jackets have suggestions of button loops created out of the cloth gathered and sewn in a bead.)

Most Prince Charlies I see nowadays have grosgrain lapels rather than satin, but I can't remember if the Geoffrey dress Argylls have those.

[Tobus]

Thanks for the information, folks. After thinking about it some more and discussing it with my spousal unit, I think I will pass on it. Lovely though it may be, I think it would just be another closet queen that never gets worn.

If anybody else who has a ~38" chest wants to have a go at it for $70, here's the link: http://www.rustyzipper.com/shop.cfm?...337476-MM16030

[Ivor]

I would love to wear this but as a newbie will wait but cannot understand why anyone would turn up this jacket. I may be a bit older but this is exactly how I identify Scottish dress.

[tpa]

Thanks for the information, folks. After thinking about it some more and discussing it with my spousal unit, I think I will pass on it. Lovely though it may be, I think it would just be another closet queen that never gets worn.

If anybody else who has a ~38" chest wants to have a go at it for $70, here's the link: http://www.rustyzipper.com/shop.cfm?...337476-MM16030

I expect that is a sensible decision. My nearly 40 year old one (38" chest!) has only seen the light of day around half a dozen times. It was bought for my wedding and still fits. I wouldn't be without it though because my only other formal jacket is around 58 years old and looks it.

[PatrickHughes123]

My earliest catalogues only have The Doublet ("suitable for older gentlemen") and The Coatee (or the Prince Charlie Coatee, "suitable for younger men" it being a recent invention).
Then The Montrose appears, mentioned "for youths"

Though dirk belts and jabots were sometimes worn with the 19th century Evening jackets (Doublet and Argyll) by the early 20th century belts had ceased to be worn with those, and jabots rarely.

You make references to an earlier doublet, and I know you aren't talking about the Montrose, could you specify what doublet you're talking about exactly?

[FossilHunter]

You make references to an earlier doublet, and I know you aren't talking about the Montrose, could you specify what doublet you're talking about exactly?

I believe that it refers to what is now known as the regulation doublet.