Perhaps a photo of an actual fabric join will help.
If you are hand stitching - This is called a "Flat Fell Seam".
If you are machine stitching your kilt - This is called a "Sailmakers Seam".
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Please notice that both of these produce a seam where there are no raw edges of fabric to fray. A serger is not used to finish the edges they are folded in or stitched over depending on you method of stitching.
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