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3rd September 19, 04:23 PM
#1
Thank you very much, Steve!!! I really appreciate the help.
I've got the very latest and greatest model and it's got the reset button on the side. Only thing is, it's not resetting. Hmmmm. The iron gets hot, but no steam. I really like the iron a lot. The steam it pumps out is mind-numbing and I can press a kilt in no time flat. But, I'm going to have to take it all apart to reset it . . . or at least, look to see what I need to be doing to reset it. Wish me luck, OK!
I hope all's going well there! Take care and thanks again for all your help.
Slàinte!,
Jon
Only 9 notes. How hard could it be?
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3rd September 19, 05:32 PM
#2
It is then probably the heating element or the thermostat. Do you have a multimeter?
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4th September 19, 02:57 AM
#3
Thank you, Steve! I'll let you know after I've gotten into it. I'm not sure if I've reset it properly yet. I hope it's not the thermostat, but the possibility is there. And, what is a muiltimeter? I've never heard of such a thing. Sorry, my ignorance is showing, but this is all kind of new to me.
Jon
Only 9 notes. How hard could it be?
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4th September 19, 08:43 AM
#4
Jon,
A Multimeter (or VOM) is a device for testing electrical and/or electronic circuits.

An inexpensive multimeter will put you back around $10.00
You can test whether a circuit is open or closed, called continuity. By putting the two probes on either side of an electric device such as a circuit breaker you can determine if the device is operating as advertised.
You could also test if a heating element is good or bad or if there is a break in a circuit or a short in a circuit to ground.
I guess I was lucky as a kid as my dad taught me to use a multimeter quite young. I have never been without one.
If you do not have one, or do not know how to use one, you will most likely have to take your iron to a repair shop that does. They will test your iron for you and isolate the fault to a specific component.
They, or you, may then need to contact Reliable for a replacement if the component is specific to your iron.
If the component is a generic one they may be able to replace it from their stock.
Last edited by Steve Ashton; 4th September 19 at 09:55 AM.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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4th September 19, 03:52 PM
#5
My Dad had one and used it from time to time, but I don't ever remember him calling it that. I'm sure I'll have to look for it, tho. No doubt it's buried on the workbench. It may take a while to locate, but at only $10.00 or so, I'm not too worried.
Thanks again for all the help,
Jon
Only 9 notes. How hard could it be?
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5th September 19, 02:30 PM
#6
 Originally Posted by Jon Lilley
My Dad had one and used it from time to time, but I don't ever remember him calling it that. I'm sure I'll have to look for it, tho. No doubt it's buried on the workbench. It may take a while to locate, but at only $10.00 or so, I'm not too worried.
Thanks again for all the help,
Jon
I believe the older term is Volt-Ohm Meter. Or VOM, as Steve put. Multimeter, again if memory is correct, was Fluke's name for their units. When I peddled some in the early 80's, they could do more than basic electrical testing. Given the correct unit & particular probe. We used them, mainly, as a trye pyrometers.
"I can draw a mouse with a pencil, but I can't draw a pencil with a mouse"
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5th September 19, 03:35 PM
#7
VOM is usually accepted as meaning Volt/Ohm/Miliammeter. I can remember though back in the '50's my dad, who was an electronics guy, always calling them multimeters or Volt/Ohm Meters.
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