Thanks so much for this guidance, I kind of suspected you might say this so I'm glad I checked.

As far as why I wanted to pleat to the stripe, I was hoping to have a kilt pleated to the stripe as all my other kilts are pleated to the sett and I really like the look.

Regarding the solid blue block, I was worried about what you call the "lawn chair" effect - seems like I'd have a pretty bad case of it here (and I'm stocky, so worried about this not being very flattering).

I really wanted to pleat to the white stripe on brown. It seems though that my pleat size doesn't really allow for that unless I'm willing to have the little blue stripes on either side of that white stripe start poking out about 1/2 way down the fell. The space between the little blue stripes is 5/8", and my pleats are 9/16" at the waist, but 3/4" at the hips.

I guess I could put more of the hip split in the apron to get down to 5/8", but that would be 1/8"*33 pleats = more than four inches. , In any case, as I'm working with PV, I was worried about doing too much shaping in the apron (maybe I'm overthinking that.)

If the only good way to make this work is to pleat to the sett, I'm ok with that, but I'm wondering if I'm going to encounter the same problem with the pleat size when it comes to dividing the sett up into good pleat reveals. Would love to know if there's a good trick for that. If that won't work, I guess the solid blue block is my only choice?

Thanks again, I love the book!