Having been making kilts for a while now, I suggest making a few folds in various options and seeing how they look - I usually find that one option will proclaim itself the right one for the project. Just keep trying out various ploys until you find the one that works.

Early on in my career with kilts I had a three colour fabric which was a bit of a Goldilocks problem - a row of any of the bands looked wrong - I still pleated to the stripe, but the stripe of each colour in turn which kept the pleasant balance of colours and turned out to give an exactly right feeling pleat depth - so it was that one. This is one of the rejected foldings and the multicolour one which was selected.