Selecting the “right” tartan version

[Navy87Guy]

I’m looking for guidance/collective wisdom on how to select the “right” tartan from amongst the various versions available.

I am specifically concerned with Clan Hamilton. The Tartan Registry shows three versions (Hamilton, Hamilton hunting, Hamilton green hunting). If I go to someplace like USA Kilts, they list twelve different variants!

Some specific questions:

- Are hunting versions of a tartan appropriate for any occasion - or should they be reserved for “casual” attire?

- Is there a provenance for various alternates (like “ancient”, “modern”, or “muted”) - or are they just variations created by different weavers?

I want to try to stay “authentic” but I definitely have some personal preferences among the various options that I’ve encountered (and I’m sure there are more!). I’m just looking for some “best practice” when it comes to choosing.

Thanks!

[FossilHunter]

I’m looking for guidance/collective wisdom on how to select the “right” tartan from amongst the various versions available.

I am specifically concerned with Clan Hamilton. The Tartan Registry shows three versions (Hamilton, Hamilton hunting, Hamilton green hunting). If I go to someplace like USA Kilts, they list twelve different variants!

Some specific questions:

- Are hunting versions of a tartan appropriate for any occasion - or should they be reserved for “casual” attire?

Appropriate for any occasion.

- Is there a provenance for various alternates (like “ancient”, “modern”, or “muted”) - or are they just variations created by different weavers?

Mostly just variations by different weavers.

I want to try to stay “authentic” but I definitely have some personal preferences among the various options that I’ve encountered (and I’m sure there are more!). I’m just looking for some “best practice” when it comes to choosing.

Thanks!

Don’t overthink it. There’s a lot of marketing with tartans and colors but at the end of the day you can rest easy picking the tartan with the colors you like the most.

[12stones]

The thread count determines the tartan. If you look at the options listed on USA Kilt, you'll see 4 different Hamilton Hunting Ancient choices. But that covers three different mills and two weights. They're the same tartan.

As stated, don't worry so much about it. You can read more about the differences here: https://usakilts.com/blog/choosing-t...weathered.html

[Navy87Guy]

The thread count determines the tartan. If you look at the options listed on USA Kilt, you'll see 4 different Hamilton Hunting Ancient choices. But that covers three different mills and two weights. They're the same tartan.

As stated, don't worry so much about it. You can read more about the differences here: https://usakilts.com/blog/choosing-t...weathered.html

Thanks…I guess I just didn’t dig enough on the website!

[KennethSime]

USA Kilts has several great YouTube videos about this - here's a good one, I think.

The reason there are twelve different variations is that USA Kilts works with several different woolen mills, and they provide their customers to option to choose Lochcarron wool over House of Edgar, or vise-versa. Some kilt makers only work with 1-2 mills, and won't have these options.

Others will disagree with this, but my rough impression is as follows:
Ancient is particularly nice for spring and summer - it's a very happy color palette.
Weathered is nice for fall and winter - it's a very reserved color palette.
Modern + muted are both nice at all times. Muted is just a bit less bright + showy.

Of course, rules are meant to be broken, and you could certainly get away with wearing any of these tartans any time of year or at any level of dress.

I'd recommend 16oz tartan, which should narrow things down for you a bit, and from what's left consider ordering swatches. Digital impressions really don't tell the full story, and swatches do a much better job!

I have a few Fraser tartans, which are very similar to Hamilton. The Fraser Weathered was my first recent kilt buy (as in, since I decided to wear kilts on a regular basis), and while it is very easy to wear, I find myself gravitate more and more toward brighter colors. I have a Fraser Red Ancient which really makes an impression that I like to wear for big to-dos, especially in the sunny months, and a Fraser of Lovat (Wilson's Variant) which is (basically) in the muted palette that I like for every-day wear, especially in the dreary months.

[Navy87Guy]

Thanks for the responses. The pointers to the USA Kilts references were very helpful.

I may have decide which Hamilton tartan I want to get first…

[Bruce Scott]

I’m looking for guidance/collective wisdom on how to select the “right” tartan from amongst the various versions available.

I am specifically concerned with Clan Hamilton. The Tartan Registry shows three versions (Hamilton, Hamilton hunting, Hamilton green hunting). If I go to someplace like USA Kilts, they list twelve different variants!

Some specific questions:

- Are hunting versions of a tartan appropriate for any occasion - or should they be reserved for “casual” attire?

- Is there a provenance for various alternates (like “ancient”, “modern”, or “muted”) - or are they just variations created by different weavers?

I want to try to stay “authentic” but I definitely have some personal preferences among the various options that I’ve encountered (and I’m sure there are more!). I’m just looking for some “best practice” when it comes to choosing.

Thanks!

This Tartan Terminology article by Matthew Newsome may be of interest:

https://albanach.org/tartan-terminology-a1089ca81ad8

[Navy87Guy]

This Tartan Terminology article by Matthew Newsome may be of interest:

https://albanach.org/tartan-terminology-a1089ca81ad8

That was a very good read….thanks!!

[McMurdo]

My two cents, first go for the modern version, it sounds atypical but the modern version is the oldest, while weathered and ancient tartans were invented as a marketing ploy in the 20th century. You will never go wrong with the modern version of any tartan.

[figheadair]

This Tartan Terminology article by Matthew Newsome may be of interest:

https://albanach.org/tartan-terminology-a1089ca81ad8

So to my own offering on the subject - The Use of Colour in Tartan.