Evening Wear Ensemble

[Liam]

Well done laddie! I particularly like the jabot version.

[Troglodyte]

I would say that is a splendid doublet..!

But mainly as I have almost exactly the same garment in an almost identical shade of green - only mine has plain silver buttons (completely smooth) and I find the collar prefers to stand, rather than lie flat as you have yours. The bulk of my jabot pushes against the lapels to keep them open, but they have sufficient resistance to support the jabot.

I have not thought of wearing it with a black tie (a regulation doublet does that duty) but I might now be tempted to try, seeing how yours has worked.

Another difference is that mine has a five button closure, with four silver 'show' and the bottom one plain as it is hidden under the belt.

Also, mine gets worn with an essentially red tartan kilt, with matching tartan hose - so I trust it would pass Jock's 'too green' test..!

[MacKenzie]

Very sharp!

I prefer the black bowtie. To my eye it pulls everything together.

[Kriegbert]

Nathan, your belt seems a little tight, disrupting the silhouette of the doublet? Are there hooks at the waist so the belt can be worn a bit looser?

[Father Bill]

You're a fashion plate, old friend!

[Nathan]

Good eye. They actually made it a bit too small for me on its largest setting, but I put it on for a photo before I sent it back for this to be remedied.

Nathan, your belt seems a little tight, disrupting the silhouette of the doublet? Are there hooks at the waist so the belt can be worn a bit looser?

[Nathan]

It sounds to me as if yours is a Kenmore doublet rather than a Balmoral doublet. I’d have to see it, of course, but the collar is the primary difference between the two. A Balmoral doublet has a lay down collar and a Kenmore has a stand up collar.

I would say that is a splendid doublet..!

But mainly as I have almost exactly the same garment in an almost identical shade of green - only mine has plain silver buttons (completely smooth) and I find the collar prefers to stand, rather than lie flat as you have yours. The bulk of my jabot pushes against the lapels to keep them open, but they have sufficient resistance to support the jabot.

I have not thought of wearing it with a black tie (a regulation doublet does that duty) but I might now be tempted to try, seeing how yours has worked.

Another difference is that mine has a five button closure, with four silver 'show' and the bottom one plain as it is hidden under the belt.

Also, mine gets worn with an essentially red tartan kilt, with matching tartan hose - so I trust it would pass Jock's 'too green' test..!

[Troglodyte]

It sounds to me as if yours is a Kenmore doublet rather than a Balmoral doublet. I’d have to see it, of course, but the collar is the primary difference between the two. A Balmoral doublet has a lay down collar and a Kenmore has a stand up collar.

Yes, I would agree...

But the collar on mine is intended to fall open to reveal the jabot, or whatever the tie being worn. The buttoning stops well below the throat like a Balmoral, and unlike other Kenmores I have seen, which button-up right to the top.

The collar on your doublet is lying turned down - can it be worn standing up with a jabot, like a Kenmore? If so, the versatility of the collar, and therefore the style of tie options, is the main difference and an obvious advantage.

Incidentally, mine has a Campbells of Beauly label and I believe dates from the late '50s or early '60s, and is in a doeskin-like fine Melton cloth.

[Nathan]

Yes, I would agree...

But the collar on mine is intended to fall open to reveal the jabot, or whatever the tie being worn. The buttoning stops well below the throat like a Balmoral, and unlike other Kenmores I have seen, which button-up right to the top.

The collar on your doublet is lying turned down - can it be worn standing up with a jabot, like a Kenmore? If so, the versatility of the collar, and therefore the style of tie options, is the main difference and an obvious advantage.

Incidentally, mine has a Campbells of Beauly label and I believe dates from the late '50s or early '60s, and is in a doeskin-like fine Melton cloth.

I can wear mine standing up but would have to pin the two sides together under the jabot. I’d like to see a pic of yours.

[Troglodyte]

I can wear mine standing up but would have to pin the two sides together under the jabot. I’d like to see a pic of yours.

Here we go...

Attachment 41126 Attachment 41127 Attachment 41128



The model is a rather svelte 1920s female form mannequin, so not ideal for this doublet, but it gives the idea.