Preparing to make my first kilt.

[Fyrbrd]

Thank you Steve,

I remember reading about your method before my original post. Thank you for explaining it a little further. It does look like a good method for maintaining consistency in the pleating process.

Thank you again,

Fyrbrd

[Fyrbrd]

Following up on my preparations; let me preface my question with, I have ordered heavyweight Hymo Canvas as recommended in TAoK.

As to my question, while picking up supplies at my local Joann's I looked to see what they had for canvas. Pickings were slim, but I was able to find a few bolts of natural cotton Duck Canvas. With Duck Canvas being a fairly firm cloth, would it be an acceptable substitute for Hymo Canvas?


Thanks,

Fyrbrd

[Steve Ashton]

One of the reasons that we use the interfacing known by the brand name "Hymo" among others is that it has some properties that canvas does not.

While canvas is strong and stiff at first, after a few washings it will be just as soft and flexible as any other.
And canvas is usually made from Cotton or Hemp which have been known to rot over time.

The interfacing recommended is primarily a synthetic. And is stiffer in one direction than the other. So we install it with the stiffness in the vertical direction. This gives body and rigidity to the back of the kilt. It will stand up all on its own.




We do not install the interfacing as a single piece but create folds that allow it to take the curved shape and further enhance the vertical stiffness.



We then use a broadcloth fabric that is strong and has no stretch for the stabilizer. This forms a belt built inside the kilt. The straps and buckles are sewn completely though the outer Tartan fabric and are anchored to the stabilizer.



Can you use canvas? Well yes, it has been used in other kilts and it can often be found in older military kilts.

But here is what canvas can look like if not cared for.



And the result if it does fail.

[DunRovinStation]

JoAnns does not carry Hymo, nor Tailor's Cloth, which would be perfect. At least mine doesn't.
I order Pellon #HC110 Sew-In Hair Canvas Interfacing.

[Fyrbrd]

First I want to express my great appreciation for all the advice I've received.

Now to the meat and potatoes. After all the prior planning I started to lay out my pleats. I've gone over them three or four times to make sure I'm not missing anything. Everything seemed to be working according to plan so far. I started with 29 pleats which is what I expected. After laying out the aprons and the pleats I found that there was only six inches of material between the first pleat and the left edge of the front apron at the hip. That is on the small side of the scale of 6" - 9" mentioned in TAoK. Additionally, I found that the sett doesn't carry over smoothly from the front apron to the first pleat. The same occurred with the under apron and the reverse pleat material on that side.

So I tried reducing the the number of pleats from 29 to 27. The sett carries over nicely from the front apron to the pleated section. Great! However, I now have 15" of material between the first pleat and the left edge of the front apron at the hip. On the under apron side the material is at the top side of the scale for the last pleat and reverse pleat. And the sett carries over nicely on this side too.

So I guess my question is, at what point do I consider a hidden pleat on the front apron deep pleat? With 15" of material there for the deep pleat, that pleat will only be slightly more than one third, by .5 inches, of the width of the apron. Is that to big for a deep pleat?

Thanks,

Fyrbrd

[MacKenzie]

Although I have no intention of making a kilt, a very interesting read.

[jhockin]

So I guess my question is, at what point do I consider a hidden pleat on the front apron deep pleat? With 15" of material there for the deep pleat, that pleat will only be slightly more than one third, by .5 inches, of the width of the apron. Is that to big for a deep pleat?

Thanks,

Fyrbrd

I’m not, by any stretch, a professional kilt maker, like Barb or Steve, I’ve only made 6 traditional kilts, so far. However, I have purposely made the deep and hidden pleats, in some of my kilts, larger than the minimum suggested in TAOKM, ( as my waist measurement has fluctuated since my 20’s ;0). I don’t think 1/2” will make a noticeable difference, and will just provide a wee bit extra, for any potential future rebuilds.

[DaughterOfMacal]

Hi there! Just read through this thread and lots of helpful nuggets as I prepare my grandpas kilt. One big question though: what is the TAoK? And where can I find it?

I am sure after reading that all of my questions that arose from this thread will be answered. Thanks!

[kilted2000]

Hi there! Just read through this thread and lots of helpful nuggets as I prepare my grandpas kilt. One big question though: what is the TAoK? And where can I find it?

I am sure after reading that all of my questions that arose from this thread will be answered. Thanks!

The Art of Kiltmaking by forum member Barbara Tewksbury. Available wherever books are sold.

[jhockin]

Hi there! Just read through this thread and lots of helpful nuggets as I prepare my grandpas kilt. One big question though: what is the TAoK? And where can I find it?
!

You an buy TAOKM directly from Barb’s website:
http://artofkiltmaking.com/