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20th June 22, 12:37 PM
#1
 Originally Posted by McMurdo
This is my first and probably only plaid. I had a thought after I answered that it might be the same thinking that goes into matching all colours that North Americans typically do. I was far too careful folding and will have to embrace the Highland way a bit more next time. 
Perhaps! Although, I think it looks great as you've folded it, it is neater than mine end up 
Shane
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20th June 22, 05:42 PM
#2
I can't help but notice that, while the kilt and plaid are made up to match Hugh Graham's, that jacket of yours is almost a perfect match for the one being worn by James MacFarlane in the same picture.
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20th June 22, 06:30 PM
#3
 Originally Posted by JPS
I can't help but notice that, while the kilt and plaid are made up to match Hugh Graham's, that jacket of yours is almost a perfect match for the one being worn by James MacFarlane in the same picture.
The jacket and waistcoat are original from 1894. The fact that they even still exist and are wearable far outweighs the colour. Having said that I love the Crotal colour of this set. I am proud to be the custodian of these pieces.
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20th June 22, 11:18 PM
#4
 Originally Posted by McMurdo
The jacket and waistcoat are original from 1894. The fact that they even still exist and are wearable far outweighs the colour. Having said that I love the Crotal colour of this set. I am proud to be the custodian of these pieces.
In my youth, 1940’s/50’s, I saw many garments in that colour and the smell of damp tweed is ingrained in my senses to this day. If I could find a modern day weaver to replicate that wonderful shade of russet brown , I would have a kilt jacket and suit made out of it forthwith.
Last edited by Jock Scot; 21st June 22 at 12:07 AM.
" Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the adherence of idle minds and minor tyrants". Field Marshal Lord Slim.
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23rd June 22, 04:31 AM
#5
The long plaid is basically the simple, most ancient form of the Roman toga, even before the ends were curved.
The folds under the arm were used as pockets, called a sinus, spread for carrying fruit, for instance, or tied with a loop of cord for small valuables and the toga was - in far antiquity - worn over a loincloth and considered the mark of a Roman citizen.
Only later was a tunica added, maybe made from something more washable than the woollen toga and the band of coloured decoration rose from the lower to the upper long edge of the fabric as worn.
Over time the length also increased so it was wound elaborately - and was probably made of linin rather than wool - far easier to keep clean and not so insulating nor so heavy when it had become yards and yards of fabric.
If you wanted to know the rank of an ancient Roman you'd look down, to the type of sandal and colour of the decorative stripe.
The folds of the military drummer's plaid are made very precisely - I think they must be sewn in, and then it is drawn very tight to the body and trapped under belts etc.
When worn more casually it is useful as it can be drawn closer or pushed aside according to the need of the wearer.
Anne the Pleater
I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
-- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.
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23rd June 22, 07:53 AM
#6
Glen:
Are you considering commissioning a pair of tartan hose, as in the illustration?
waulk softly and carry a big schtick
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23rd June 22, 05:39 PM
#7
 Originally Posted by jhockin
Glen:
Are you considering commissioning a pair of tartan hose, as in the illustration?
I was thinking about it. For now the Gairloch pattern will have to do.
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20th June 22, 11:56 PM
#8
 Originally Posted by McMurdo
The jacket and waistcoat are original from 1894. The fact that they even still exist and are wearable far outweighs the colour. Having said that I love the Crotal colour of this set. I am proud to be the custodian of these pieces.
Crotal is a generic term for a number of lichens, most prize was Dark Crotal (Parmelia omphalodes) which gives that wonderful ginger colour. It was often mixed with other colour in the yarn as in my jacket with tweed woven by the late Marion Campbell in 1982. She maintianed the old ways and dyed; spun; woven and waulked here own cloth, all by hand.

 Originally Posted by Jock Scot
In my youth, 1940’s/50’s, I saw many garments in that colour and the smell of damp tweed is ingrained in my senses to this day. If I could find a modern day weaver to replicate that wonderful shade of brown , I would have a kilt jacket and suit made out of it forthwith.
Jock. It's worth checking out Carloway Crotal. It looks as though Iain Martainn's Seathforth Tweed is pretty close.
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21st June 22, 12:09 AM
#9
Thank you Peter, I will investigate your lead.
" Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the adherence of idle minds and minor tyrants". Field Marshal Lord Slim.
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21st June 22, 04:25 AM
#10
I put together four gents in MacLeay showing the wearing of day plaids with tweed, and the long hair sporrans typical of the time (plain leather pocket-shaped "day" sporrans were decades in the future).
Note the plainness of the jackets, none being the classic Argyll jacket that we know so well.
Last edited by OC Richard; 21st June 22 at 04:51 AM.
Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte
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