Why the Kilt?

[kilted2000]

As I understand it, the first evidence of kilt wearing in Scotland is from the 16/17 centuries. Before then people might have worn the Irish leine tunic. Why the change? Where did the idea of wrapping a length of wool around yourself come from? Why dress differently than other people at the time? I'm sure much of the answers to this are lost to history because of a lack of sources, but what is known?

I would have thought that the midges would have encouraged trousers.

[figheadair]

As I understand it, the first evidence of kilt wearing in Scotland is from the 16/17 centuries. Before then people might have worn the Irish leine tunic. Why the change? Where did the idea of wrapping a length of wool around yourself come from? Why dress differently than other people at the time? I'm sure much of the answers to this are lost to history because of a lack of sources, but what is known?

I would have thought that the midges would have encouraged trousers.

The linen shirt was not particular to Ireland/Scotland but was the standard peasant wear across Europe. Think of the traditional English Country Smock which was still used well into the 19th century.

The use of the wool brat or mantle (essentially a loose cloak) by the Celts was noted by the Romans. The belted plaid is simply a development of the brat. I have read, and can see some logic, that the change coincided with the Little Ice Age - a full wool garment would have been warmer. There would have needed to be a corresponding increase in the availability of sheep/fleece around that time which I’m sure someone will have written about. Remember that the Highlands were relatively cut off until the middle of the 18th century which would have allowed a distinctive form of dress to be developed for the harsher environment, and retained long after dress was being modernised elsewhere.

Similarly, I have read that midges were less of an issue before major agricultural changes, and land abandonment, that came in with the improvements in the second half of the 18th century.

[Mael Coluim]

Similarly, I have read that midges were less of an issue before major agricultural changes, and land abandonment, thatcame in with the improvements in the second half of the 18th century.

The Clearances, Peter?

[figheadair]

The Clearances, Peter?

In broad terms, possibly but it should be remembered that far more people left for economic reasons than were ever cleared by force.

[stickman]

When I was a young lad I was outside all day long. There were no insects of any kind, that I remember, except a few flys. The only thing that bothered us was nettles. When I went home several years ago I was shocked to get mosquito bit. A major factor in the spread of insects is the increase in worldwide trade. A couple of cases in point 1, zebra mussels in the Great Lakes 2, Asian tiger mosquitoes here in the south.

[JPS]

In broad terms, possibly but it should be remembered that far more people left for economic reasons than were ever cleared by force.

Force comes in many forms.

[Pleater]

Even in the North of England, a loose cloak is not a practical garment if walking around in bad weather.
If fastened at the neck it is going to be a toss up between death by hypothermia or strangulation.

Smocks and tunics were adequate in warm weather, wool was expensive and was often used to make leggings and sleeves - four separate items, and smallish waistcoat/doublet/corset - the former fastened under the smock and the latter over it.

Anne the Pleater

[OC Richard]

Where did the idea of wrapping a length of wool around yourself come from?


Why dress differently than other people at the time?

AFAIK there's no evidence to shed light on when men started belting the "mantle" (as English observers called it) or brat (as it was called in Ireland) around their waist.

Even harder is the 'why'! I've been going down the Roman Britain rabbithole for several years now, and historians rarely know why people did things. It's unclear, for example, what Hadrian's Wall looked like, what its exact function was, or precisely why it was built.

One can speculate that the ankle-length brat interfered with hiking in the steep Highland country etc.

Early outsiders who saw Highland Dress for the first time sometimes spoke of it as "antique" or "Roman" clothing, I suppose imagining that it was a survival of the Toga.

About "why dress differently that other people?" I think that in general pre-modern rural populations evolved their own unique dress due to having little contact with others.

BTW the Irish brat generally had fringe or fur on some of its edges, and at least one early representation of a Highlander appears to show fringe or fur edging a Highland plaid. But AFAIK this is as close as we come to a "missing link" garment.

[stickman]

In the part of Cumbria that I came from a brat was an apron. It could be made from any material including burlap.

[Steve Ashton]

I don't think that Scotland and the kilt were unique at all. Almost every human culture started out with men and women wearing un-tailored pieces of fabric.

A heavy blanket like fabric for cold climates and light fabrics where it is hot.

It is no stretch to go from a wrap around blanket thrown over the shoulders to putting a belt or cord tied at the waist.
It is also no stretch to adjust the length at the legs for comfort.

The Tarim basin mummies were dressed in just this sort of garment.

As tailoring became more common pleats appeared. Then legs in pants appeared. Then tailored shirts. The Greeks did it, the Chinese did it, there are many examples.

What I have a problem with is what some call the "Great Kilt" with perfect pleating.