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  1. #1
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    kiltsociety.com

    Quote Originally Posted by OC Richard View Post
    I saw the 8-yard wool kilt for 200 pounds, which wouldn't even cover the cost of four yards double width 13 ounce kilting cloth from Lochcarron, for example, at 64 pounds a yard.

    So it would be over 250 pounds just for the cloth. Then you would have to pay the kiltmaker.
    EXCEPT that, if you follow the links to that item (in Douglas Weathered tartan), it's 8 yards of synthetic cloth. On the other hand, if you go back to the site and select, for example, https://kiltsociety.com/collections/...avyweight-wool, the pricing is more in line what one might expect from a kiltmaker in Scotland, although CERTAINLY less expensive than what one would pay at Kinloch Anderson, for example.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsrnephdoc View Post
    https://kiltsociety.com/collections/...avyweight-wool, the pricing is more in line what one might expect from a kiltmaker in Scotland, although CERTAINLY less expensive than what one would pay at Kinloch Anderson, for example.
    Ah, thanks, I had missed that page.

    What they don't say is whether the pleats are machine stitched or hand stitched.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by OC Richard View Post
    Ah, thanks, I had missed that page.

    What they don't say is whether the pleats are machine stitched or hand stitched.
    Never having attempted anything more complex with needle and thread than re-attaching a button, I'm in the dark about the actual differences in quality between one with hidden but machine-stitched pleats and one with hand-stitched pleats. I'm guessing that some of it relates primarily to tradition.

    Next week my NYC son and I will visit USA Kilts. They make two different price-point types of 8 yd woolen kilts, one where the pleats are made using"top-stitching" (easier to do and visible to anyone who knows what to look for) vs. hidden stitching. In both instances, however, the stitching is done by machine. I wonder whether there really IS any difference in quality between a carefully made kilt made by someone who stitches the pleats by machine vs. someone who does it by hand, given that a well-operated machine is capable of incredibly uniform output, but I hope to find out. I have only one kilt made by hand, and I'll wear that for my visit and see what I learn.

    I'm excited for my visit because the people at USA Kilts seem uniformly happy about their work (and that's evident in their emails and phone calls). On topic for the thread title, however, I'll ask them about the "puffy-faced-dog" dress sporrans they sell (SOMEONE else must like them, since they offer them for sale, but they also sell the "Ghillie Shirts" so maligned so often here.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsrnephdoc View Post
    Never having attempted anything more complex with needle and thread than re-attaching a button, I'm in the dark about the actual differences in quality between one with hidden but machine-stitched pleats and one with hand-stitched pleats. I'm guessing that some of it relates primarily to tradition.

    Next week my NYC son and I will visit USA Kilts. They make two different price-point types of 8 yd woolen kilts, one where the pleats are made using"top-stitching" (easier to do and visible to anyone who knows what to look for) vs. hidden stitching. In both instances, however, the stitching is done by machine. I wonder whether there really IS any difference in quality between a carefully made kilt made by someone who stitches the pleats by machine vs. someone who does it by hand, given that a well-operated machine is capable of incredibly uniform output, but I hope to find out. I have only one kilt made by hand, and I'll wear that for my visit and see what I learn.

    I'm excited for my visit because the people at USA Kilts seem uniformly happy about their work (and that's evident in their emails and phone calls). On topic for the thread title, however, I'll ask them about the "puffy-faced-dog" dress sporrans they sell (SOMEONE else must like them, since they offer them for sale, but they also sell the "Ghillie Shirts" so maligned so often here.
    Ask about their Premier style which they outsource to Scotland.

  6. #5
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    Kilts from USA Kilts

    Quote Originally Posted by RGM1 View Post
    Ask about their Premier style which they outsource to Scotland.
    Actually, on USA Kilts's website, they state plainly in their description of their "Premier" 8 yard kilts that they produce them themselves at their own shop. Here's the text of that:

    Our reputation is built upon the beauty, comfort and durability of these premium kilts. In fact, we are known for over-building essential parts: Extra-strong embossed leather for the straps, Reinforced stitching on all stress points. Attention to every detail. And by making them here in the USA, we actually bring the cost to you down.

    It's my understanding that the very first kilt they made for me WAS outsourced to Gaelic Themes, but only because they had too many orders of backlog to get it done on time. I never verified that, but on their monthly YouTube session they make it clear that the pleats on their own 8 yd premier kilts are machine stitched (but from the backside so that the stitches do not show).

    But, checking on this on their website, I discovered something I'd not seen before, which is what they charge for one-off "custom" kilts when that includes custom tartan design and or weaving of a rare tartan. Makes me glad that there ARE > 40 varieties of "Robertson" fabric readily available! But I'm also confident that the elevated price ($1485) accurately reflects their cost to make such garments.

    They've promised to give me a tour of their facility. Unfortunately, I'll be there on a "first Friday" (of the month), the day they do their You Tube live shows, so they'll likely be pretty busy.

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  8. #6
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    Back to quality sporrans for less money!

    Nicoll Brothers (a favourite maker of mine) black leather seal-fronted "semi dress" sporran for under 30 pounds

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/39639376769...Bk9SR66k0a2_ZQ

    There's a seller with two Nicoll Brothers musquash animal-mask sporrans up on Ebay at the same time.

    Not super cheap but much less than such a sporran would cost new.

    I would pay the extra money for the one with the much nicer face, it's 250 Pounds.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/17697521364...Bk9SR4C98K2_ZQ
    Last edited by OC Richard; 3rd April 25 at 02:00 AM.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsrnephdoc View Post

    USA Kilts' description of their "Premier" 8 yard kilts:

    Our reputation is built upon the beauty, comfort and durability of these premium kilts. In fact, we are known for over-building essential parts: Extra-strong embossed leather for the straps, Reinforced stitching on all stress points. Attention to every detail. And by making them here in the USA, we actually bring the cost to you down.
    Interesting that they mention as a positive something that I dislike in their kilts, the super thick leather straps.

    As soon as I received my USA Kilts kilt I switched them out for traditional leather straps. Scottish kilt makers have had a couple hundred years to figure out what thickness and suppleness of leather works best.

    They don't mention there that their "Premier 8 yard kilts" have machine-sewn pleats, which I'm told they do.

    Quote Originally Posted by jsrnephdoc View Post
    It's my understanding that the very first kilt they made for me WAS outsourced to Gaelic Themes
    It would be really nice to have both a Gaelic Themes kilt and a USA Kilts "Premier" kilt to hand simultaneously to do an in-depth side-by-side comparison.

    I assume that both are "traditional kilts" in having a stabiliser and cut-out pleats.

    What I'd like to see up close in particular are the stitched portions of the pleats.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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  12. #8
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    The stitching is invisible to my eyes.

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  14. #9
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    Cool Hand- vs. machine-stitched pleats

    Quote Originally Posted by OC Richard View Post
    Interesting that they mention as a positive something that I dislike in their kilts, the super thick leather straps.

    As soon as I received my USA Kilts kilt I switched them out for traditional leather straps. Scottish kilt makers have had a couple hundred years to figure out what thickness and suppleness of leather works best.

    (and)


    It would be really nice to have both a Gaelic Themes kilt and a USA Kilts "Premier" kilt to hand simultaneously to do an in-depth side-by-side comparison.

    I assume that both are "traditional kilts" in having a stabiliser and cut-out pleats.

    What I'd like to see up close in particular are the stitched portions of the pleats.
    I've not checked, but since you HAVE a kilt from USA Kilts, can you not provide at least some responses to your own rhetorical questions? Not intending to be snarky, just curious.

    And, I've NEVER seen anyone from USA Kilts try to hide the fact that they machine-stitch their kilts.There is a former Canadian military (Seaforth Highlanders) guy online who's posted probably HUNDREDS of videos of his own kilt-making enterprise who's said some disparaging things about USA Kilts, but those have been disparaged themselves by VERY respected people here.

    I have two 8 yard kilts from St. Kilda, both with machine-stitched pleats. The spokesperson for St Kilda with whom I occasionally chat online tells me that the main difference between their own machine-stitched 8 yd kilts and their hand-stitched products is the cost to make the latter, not the quality of the product. I also have a brand new example of Barb Tewksbury's handiwork. Barb advised me to have it pleated to the stripe, and I can recognize that, but as to the nature of the construction itself I'd be useless as a witness, except that NONE of those garments are particularly appreciative of being asked to cloak a shrinking body.

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  16. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by OC Richard View Post

    What I'd like to see up close in particular are the stitched portions of the pleats.
    OC:

    Here are a couple of photos of the stitched portions of the pleats on my USA Kilts Premiere kilt (which I like very much, btw):







    Not sure if that's at all helpful, but here they are.

    Cheers,

    SM
    Shaun Maxwell
    Vice President & Texas Commissioner
    Clan Maxwell Society

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