Deciding how to pleat a kilt

[User]

... I think I prefer the Marton Mills tartan, as it has a stain resistant finish ...

I know Marton Mills applies a stain resistant finish to their PV. But do they also apply a treatment to their wool? I've never heard that.

[Jock Scot]

As I have no experience of Marton Mills tartans in particular and their cloth in general, I wonder if their tartan cloth is made of 100% wool , or, 100% synthetic ,or a blend of wool and a synthetic thread? Are the various cloths all treated with "something" for stain resistance? I am, of course, well aware of their name within the weaving world.

[geomick]

Marton Mills has a small number of tartans in a wool / synthetic blend, but most are listed as 100% wool

they are the poly/viscose supplier for the kilt companies I am familiar with

[ShaunMaxwell]

Marton Mills has a small number of tartans in a wool / synthetic blend, but most are listed as 100% wool

they are the poly/viscose supplier for the kilt companies I am familiar with

Some 18 years ago, I had three kilts made from 16oz. 100% wool tartan from the Marton Mills Jura range tartan (Maxwell modern, Smith ancient and MacDougall ancient). At the time, the description of the fabric on the Marton Mills website said — and I quote — "with the benefit of a stain resistant finish as standard to give added durability.” (I know this because I copy/pasted the text from their website into an old thread about Teflon coating on kilting fabric.)

While that may no longer be the case, that was certainly the description at the time. In reviewing their website this morning, I could find no such language.

Here’s a link to their available tartans:

https://martonmills.com/shop?search=Jura

Cheers,

SM

P.S. Marton Mills has a separate range of PV tartan that they refer to as “Balmoral,” which is what I believe you’re referring to.

https://martonmills.com/shop?search=Balmoral

[Jock Scot]

There's no better model for the Scottish Wildcat tartan than its designer, Glen Allardyce.

And photos, much less computer graphics, don't do it justice.

Sale of the tartan raises funds to protect the endangered Scottish Wildcat. I'd contact Glen to find out when another run will be done.

I miss Glen's input on this website. I hope all is well with him and his family?

[User]

On their Sustainability page, they state:

As standard we apply a fluorocarbon finish to every Polyester-Viscose fabric ...

https://martonmills.com/sustainability

And on their "About Us" page, they state:

Finished to Perfection
Through our partnership with Roberts Dyers and Finishers, we apply specialist finishes — from Teflon® to Nanosphere® — to meet your end use.

https://martonmills.com/about

I interpret that as meaning their PV is always treated, but these days their wool is treated by request. Some of the language on their sustainability page sounds like the market is shifting away from forever chemicals and toward natural, so perhaps those treatments on wool create mixed feelings among consumers.

Polyester is already synthetic, and viscose is semi-synthetic, so I suppose there's less objection. Also, their PV line is primarily purchased for school wear, so stain resistance is likely considered a necessity.

Then again, I'm just speculating based on the official information available. If someone wants a definitive answer, I suppose it would be best to ask them directly for clarification.

[SF Jeff]

On their Sustainability page, they state:

https://martonmills.com/sustainability

And on their "About Us" page, they state:

https://martonmills.com/about

I interpret that as meaning their PV is always treated, but these days their wool is treated by request. Some of the language on their sustainability page sounds like the market is shifting away from forever chemicals and toward natural, so perhaps those treatments on wool create mixed feelings among consumers.

About 15 years ago when I first started building my highland dress wardrobe (which admittedly is still somewhat meager after all these years) I remember reading (probably here) that MM treated their wool fabric with some kind of teflon coating to protect it. Many people said the fabric didn't look or feel right, being somewhat shiny in appearance and stiff in structure. The complaint was that this affected the hand of the fabric and it was harder to pleat and the pleats didn't drape properly and therefore didn't "swish" like fabric from other mills. This was the reason that MM was often at the bottom of many people's lists of preferred tartan mills. I know I certainly avoided it when I was kilt shopping. Three kilts and none are MM.

[ShaunMaxwell]

About 15 years ago when I first started building my highland dress wardrobe (which admittedly is still somewhat meager after all these years) I remember reading (probably here) that MM treated their wool fabric with some kind of teflon coating to protect it. Many people said the fabric didn't look or feel right, being somewhat shiny in appearance and stiff in structure. The complaint was that this affected the hand of the fabric and it was harder to pleat and the pleats didn't drape properly and therefore didn't "swish" like fabric from other mills. This was the reason that MM was often at the bottom of many people's lists of preferred tartan mills. I know I certainly avoided it when I was kilt shopping. Three kilts and none are MM.

I have seven kilts: three are Marton Mills, two Locharron, one DC Dalgliesh and one House of Edgar. I have not noticed any of the complaints you've mentioned. I'ts not shiny, or stiff. In fact, of my kilts, I'd say that the one with the best "swish" is Marton Mills tartan, with second place going to the House of Edgar. That said, I reckon the swing has more to do with the construction than the fabric.

I'll leave it to the kiltmakers to comment on the workability of the tartan, but — having had experience with various kilts made from fabric from various mills — I certainly wouldn't say that Marton Mills tartan is something to be avoided.

Cheers,

SM

P.S. Interesting video that discusses the various mills: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKWv6e9Qk6s

[OC Richard]

Interesting, that video mainly talks about how the cloth from various mills irons, which is not something I ever thought about. If it was framed in terms of how well the cloth holds its pleats once ironed (which I think is mentioned once) it would seem more relevant.

I have kilts made of 16 ounce cloth from Marton Mills, Lochcarron, and House of Edgar. I don't notice any difference; the minutiae of weaving and selvedge fly under my radar.

Of more interest to me are the various available colour-palettes, weights, and sett-sizes.

For example there are a couple tartans I like but only Strathmore weaves them, and only in 11 ounce cloth.

And there's a tartan I like which only House of Edgar weaves, and only in a sett-size too small for a gent's kilt IMHO.

[Pleater]

@OC Richard could you pleat to stripes as laid out in the original set - which could be white red red - which could well result in irregular sized pleats but - who's to know?

I mean in the Robertson hunting - lots of posts since then but it has obviously been sculking around in my memory for a while, seeking an option.

Anne the Pleater