Sewing the inside pleats of AmeriKilt??

**Riverkilt** · 1st August 05, 08:56 PM

Been wearing my AmeriKilt tiger stripe camo into the ground...goes well with a USMC t-shirt or tank in the summer heat.

Finally washed it. Hanging it up I'm noticing that the inside pleats aren't sewn, just folded.

Got to wondering if it would help or hurt to tack them down or sew them down. There are 15 inside "pleats" for my size. Don't wanna change the swing or the hang...but shouldn't be a problem to do it if it would improve the hang of it.

Suggestions/feedback appreciated.

And, an afterthought about AmeriKilt "sporrans"...I really like how they look with a contrast rather than a match. I'll wear my putty (War 2 Khaki) with my tiger stripe and vice versa. Same for my Pittsburgh Kilt camos..

For me, makes more of a "sporran" statement if they're more visible.

Ron

**Jimmy Carbomb** · 2nd August 05, 04:14 PM

Believe it or not... but sewing down the pleats on an AmeriKilt is actually NOT a good idea. Unless they're in the EXACT and PRECISE location, you'll get the puckering pleats like you do with the UtiliKilts. By leaving them "free" you actually allow the pleats to fall where they will. You're actually better-off ironing them and praying that they're in the right place. If they're not... atleast you can correct that next time without pulling stitches! Plus, if you gain or lose weight, this won't restrict the pleats.

**Riverkilt** · 2nd August 05, 09:33 PM

Good God I love this board!

I would have screwed it up for sure trying to make it better. Thanks Jimmy!

Ron

**Jimmy Carbomb** · 5th August 05, 06:39 AM

Hey Ron... wanna take a guess on someone that tried it?

After I took it apart, I looked at the "engineering" with the pleats and noticed that they're restricted in the hips with the angled sewing. Any variations on the angles will pull the material into "unnatural" places. Also, the sewing in the "sewn-down" areas will fight the new stitches to stretch over the hip area.

It's just not worth it! I wish I had the energy to pull EVERY SINGLE under stitch on my UtiliKilts. It would make them look 200% better, and hang without puckering or curling. That may be a winter project!?

**Riverkilt** · 5th August 05, 06:49 AM

Help my besotted brain here Jimmy. By "understitch do you mean the vertical stitching that forms the "inside" pleats, or something more complicated higher up and inside?

You've got my interest...but rushing off to work now..kilted of course...

Ron

**Jimmy Carbomb** · 5th August 05, 07:15 AM

Originally Posted by Riverkilt

By "understitch do you mean the vertical stitching that forms the "inside" pleats, or something more complicated higher up and inside?

In the case of "fixing" a UtiliKilt, I'm referring to the stitching that extends BELOW the hips, all the way to the bottom hem. This would allow the pleats to "bend" with the curvature of your own shape. By having UtiliKilt sew them down, it will (by theory) keep you from having to iron them as much, but it severely restricts the pleats from movement. By "freeing" the underside of the pleats from this stitching, they're now able to go where they need to go.

I am DEFINATELY going to make this change on all my UtiliKilts so that the pleats will stop curling, the insides will stop creasing MY underside, and the outside pleats will better drape. It's a simple correction that will only take a LOAD of care and time to complete.

This becomes even more necessary as the material shrinks with washings and dryings. I, personally, will welcome the less rigid pleat on the inside... against my skin!!!

**sav** · 5th August 05, 07:18 AM

Jimmy,
when you get around to fixing your UK's in this fashion, post a few pics of the finished product. I absolutely HATE the curling pleats of the UK, and if it's worth the time, I may fix them in a similar manner, but I'd like to see it done first!

**Jimmy Carbomb** · 5th August 05, 07:33 AM

Sav, my buddy, it's as good as DONE. It's just a matter of taking a seam ripper this weekend and slowly running the lines. It's GUARANTEED to work. Of course, I'll need to wash and damp-dry the kilt after the process to get it to drape in the right place. What I'll do is: put it on before it perfectly dries, and have Stacey "pin" the pleats into the correct spot for a nice drape. Once pinned, I'll iron them into THAT position and voila! After that... I'm going to see just how far off the original sewing-lines this kilt was generically made inorder to fit my individual shape. This ought to be good!8)

**Riverkilt** · 5th August 05, 07:36 AM

Okay, thanks Jimmy...looking at my UK there seem to be a few seams that would best be left alone...i.e. if I took them out the kilt would come apart...pretty easy to spot them. So now I'm focusing on the sides and the back of the UK only and on the inside pleat seams only.

I really like the way the small apron automatically drops between my legs when I sit. Nothing to worry about. Doesn't seem like I'd have to undo the underpleat seam on the underapron...don't wanna screw up the way that works.

Thanks again for your expertise...what a great board this is....I'd never have known, or thought of this...or risked trying it out....

Now...which UK gets to be the first victim.....??

Ron

**jjoseph** · 5th August 05, 11:12 AM

Originally Posted by Jimmy Carbomb

In the case of "fixing" a UtiliKilt, I'm referring to the stitching that extends BELOW the hips, all the way to the bottom hem..
.
.
.
By "freeing" the underside of the pleats from this stitching, they're now able to go where they need to go.

I am DEFINATELY going to make this change on all my UtiliKilts..... It's a simple correction that will only take a LOAD of care and time to complete.

Okay, sounds great... lest puckering and less ridges to ruffle feathers.... better hang / better swing... but HOW? By pulling the stiches under do you mean to simply remove the vertical stitching along the crease of the inside folds of the pleats? Is that done w/ a seam ripper?

much grass,