Are Acrylic kilts flammable?

[Rigged]

I spin fire using a staff. It's like a double torch. Most fire spinners wear natural fibres -- typically cotton, wool or leather because they are slower to catch fire and burn more slowly and with fewer hazards (melting) than other materials. Others wear treated materials that are fire resistant.

I usually spin wearing either my black workman's UK or the leather UK. I'm also particular about the fuel I use. I only use white gas (Coleman camp fuel), or charcoal lighter fluid.

They have very similar properties in that they evaporate very quickly so that even if I brush the flaming end of the staff against my clothing, the burning fuel will evaporate off before it can heat up the material enough for it to catch fire.

I'm also a Ranger at Burning Man and we always wear natural fibres since we work close to burning objects.

Hot sparks from an open fire will burn holes in most synthetic materials even if the material doesn't totally go up in hot sticky flame.

Synthetics are like wrapping yourself in napalm.

[yoippari]

I asked something similar in one of my posts a wek or two ago. I will be working near high heat where the flamability of the clothes does matter. Although a leather apron will probably keep a kilt relatively safe around a forge, I still would not want synthetic clothes on me. One of the problems with the synthetic materials (which I lovingly refer to as plastic clothing) is that when they melt, they melt to you.

My dad knows someone at his paper mill that was given a "plastic" safety vest as some award for safety. He was working near a machine when it either exploded or a burst of flame came out (not sure of the details). He still has some of that vest in his back.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I remember asking why the guys that work around the smelting and blast furnaces wore wool shirts under the leather aprons, and my dad gave me the "skinny" on what happens when you don't! Sweat is a small price to pay for safety.

Except for a bonfire at the Pennsic Wars, I don't see any other place that this will be a concern for me... but this is all gerat information to accumulate for those that are in the situation.

Anyone know of a material that would be appropriately fire-retardant and yet look good when pleated? I guess that comfort would be a good thing to consider too.;-)

[yoippari]

I remember asking why the guys that work around the smelting and blast furnaces wore wool shirts under the leather aprons, and my dad gave me the "skinny" on what happens when you don't! Sweat is a small price to pay for safety.

Except for a bonfire at the Pennsic Wars, I don't see any other place that this will be a concern for me... but this is all gerat information to accumulate for those that are in the situation.

Anyone know of a material that would be appropriately fire-retardant and yet look good when pleated? I guess that comfort would be a good thing to consider too.;-)

I asked the same question. Basicly wool is going to be good for reasons stated above as would leather. I think the heavier it is the more fire resistant it will be (kinda like a fire blanket) but most wool kilts you wouldn't want to risk burn holes. Well, unless you go for a solid color that is ment for what ever task you are wearing it for (so that if it gets damaged it isn't any great loss).

I saw something on the neo kilt site that bares mentioning. Two tone leather and wool kilt. Leather aprons, wool pleats. At least for my purposes the pleats will be pretty safe and the leather apron should stop anything the forge throws at it. How it looks in person I have no idea. Perhaps one of the resident kiltmakers should try this.

[Archangel]

My contribution to this is based on 20 odd years, very odd years, welding. My scars include a third degree patch on the ankle and numerous ouchies over my bod. And I've done pioneer village blacksmithing.

Wool would be better than acrylics, a leather apron is best and commercially available.

Wool under coverall has a value except it can trap gases which makes it a bomb. Butane lighter horror stories, gas leaks, add to the caution tale.

We used cotton and went to nomex coveralls. Cotton smolders but will ignite. Socks catching fire inside the boot is a rare treat. Elbow burn came from buddy putting out fire on elbow by pressing into me, "no, no, pull away." I wasn't even burning at that point, just starting to be aware of it, it's a welder thing.

Nomex is lighter, radiation burns happen and there are little melt holes all over my clothes. Sometimes the sparkies get through but they're cooler after that. Cooler means little dot burn instead of big burn. Yes, I wear golf shirt and long nomex pants under the coveralls, most of us do, many have long sleeved shirts.

The sport kilt site has a photo of a farrier working using their product, can't remember if he is using an apron.

Myself, if I was going to smithy work and wanted to wear a kilt, I would talk with Robert at R-kilts and see about his canvas/duck product. It's heavy duty. Historically, a wool kilt must have been used but I think that's an awful expense for something that will look terrible within months. And I would get a commercial leather apron. I can't see any maker coming close in price. The aprons are fairly wide for more coverage and the ones that cover the trunk can be folded down for more coverage or cut off. (Got to assume this is your own forge, can't imagine any employer letting you in wearing a kilt. I'd have trouble getting to my locker on the floor and would have to use a separate entrance most likely.)

[Archangel]

oh, and almost lost ring finger due to spark on ring. very fast transmission of heat, pull ring of immediately or lose finger. do not do that again.

Experience is not a good teacher, no second chances. Somebody else's experience is the best teacher.

[yoippari]

Since this seems to be a general information thread and not about one use of kilts in a "warm" environment I guess I can feel ok about hijacking this thread.

True a wool kilt might be an expensive thing to beat up by smithing in it, but a solid color (cheaper) with leather aprons (the kilt aprons) should work out pretty good. Of course having a leather smithy apron (to differentiate between kilt and non kilt apron) that will keep all of your clothes safer is the more practical option, but it also can get really hot. In the winter, or even spring and fall, the apron is the best choice, but some summer days get to where you just don't want the extra layer of leather.

Yes it is my own forge and it isn't even built yet. Still got the tuyere to attach and a valve for the blower to get together. I just found a possible anvil stand but it will require some construction. I'm not really worried about stuff from the forge. In my experiance for the kilt to be damaged from teh forge itself I would have to be standing almost against it. The only real concern I have is the scale (sparks) from the material I'm working. I have only had small burns on my arms (real small) and that was because I was using the cheap leather gloves that were already at the smithy, and not my welding gloves.

How this applies to areas other than smithing? I'm not entirely sure. BBQs do throw grease at you from time to time, but a simple "kiss the chef" apron will fix that. Being around a bonfire shouldn't be much of a problem unless you are right next to it or there are a lot of embers shooting out at you. I am not that familiar with smelting so I don't know about what kind of hot... things might come in contact with a kilt, or pants.