X Marks Tartan order update

**KMacT** · 9th August 05, 09:06 AM

Alan,

I go at this from the opposite end of the calculations, more or less following Barb's book. For example, I start with the size of the cloth and work from there. Let's assume a 4' cloth. With a 6" sett and waist of 40" I get a total of 11 pleats at the back. Here is how I get to it.

Four yards of cloth equals 144" of cloth (it's easier to work in inches). If I understand correctly, Barb says to set aside 76" for the front of the kilt (inside and outside aprons and other stuff). This leaves 68" of cloth to go around the back where the pleats will be (total cloth length less length of cloth for the front).

In 68" of cloth one only gets 11.33 repeats of the pattern (68" divided by sett size). So pleated to the strip there can *only* be 11 pleats!

Since the waist size is 40", and the size of the waist at the back of the kilt will be half that (20"), and because the pleats go half way around the waist, then all the pleats will need to fit into those 20" of waist at the back. This gives a pleat size (revealed pleat) of 1.76" and a depth of pleat of 2.12, and a depth to width ratio of only "1.2:1".

Five yards of fabric? 17 pleats; 1.15" wide; 2.42" deep (ratio of 2.1:1)

Six yards? 23 pleats; 0.86" wide; 2.57" deep (ratio of 3:1)

While you could go with five yards of material, I think a more "traditional" look would require six yards (with a 6" sett and 40" waist). Note that this is for knife pleats and if you are getting Matt to make a box pleated kilt, then none of this really applies.

Make sense? Errors?

Kevin

**Alan H** · 9th August 05, 09:30 AM

Makes sense!! LOL

Actually I think that both approaches make sense. they get to similar answers, but in fact that's not really the point I was getting at.

All I want to say is that if we/me/we were assuming that the sett is nine inches, and now it's going to be a lot closer to six inches, we should each review our options for our kilt(s) accordingly. I'm getting a box pleated kilt, so it's no worry. Others who may want knife pleated kilts should review their plans. There may be no change whatsoever, but it'd be a serious bummer if someone got a surprise late in the game...that's all.

**KMacT** · 9th August 05, 12:13 PM

Alan,

I agree. The size of the sett can make a huge difference and must be taken into account. For example, I'm about to receive eight yards of tartan with a 15" sett. That's right, *fifteen* inches. Now that takes some creative kilt-making, I'll tell you (but Barb knew the trick and was happy to pass it on - it'll be pleated to the stripe and I'll be able to get 29 small pleats out of that for a very "traditional" knife-pleated kilt).

Kevin

**The Wizard of BC** · 13th September 05, 09:59 AM

I have just heard from Gordon Kirkbright.

The X Marks Tartan fabric is off the loom.
We should have enough for everyone's orders, and to send a sample to Matt Newsome and a piece to Hank.

He will ship it to me tomorrow or Wed. via DHL. (Too large for Postal Service.)

I'll let everyone know just as soon as I have it in the shop.

The jonesing has shifted into high gear.

Everyone break out Barb's book.

**Colin** · 13th September 05, 10:02 AM

Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC

I have just heard from Gordon Kirkbright.

The X Marks Tartan fabric is off the loom.
We should have enough for everyone's orders, and to send a sample to Matt Newsome and a piece to Hank.

He will ship it to me tomorrow or Wed. via DHL. (Too large for Postal Service.)

I'll let everyone know just as soon as I have it in the shop.

The jonesing has shifted into high gear.

Everyone break out Barb's book.

I exchanged emails with Gordon last week (regarding another matter) and he said that the Xmarks tartan looked great, and he was sure it would be well received. Looking forward to pictures.

**Mike n NC** · 13th September 05, 10:19 AM

Originally Posted by Colin

I exchanged emails with Gordon last week (regarding another matter) and he said that the Xmarks tartan looked great, and he was sure it would be well received. Looking forward to pictures.

Pictures my big'ol butt...looking forward to the real thing.

Mike

**Kilted Taper** · 13th September 05, 10:27 AM

As a newb that missed this, I'm excited to see some pictures as well. I realize, after reading this thread, it was hard to get enough orders for the first run, but if a second run is out there I'd be interested. My only hang up would be who to make the kilt for me. I've got no experience in that (I only currently own UK and AK kilts), and no clue how much fabric would be needed.

**Alan H** · 13th September 05, 11:27 AM

FANTASTIC!

You da Man, Steve.

**Riverkilt** · 13th September 05, 01:33 PM

I love it when a plan comes together. Thanks for all your hard work Steve.

Puleeze, let me know how much I owe you for the extra meter for the X Marks Vest.

Hey, Kilted Taper, check out www.kathyskilts.com Kathy Lare has made two hand sewn kilts for me already and they are beauties. She's also sewing up my X Marks kilt and X Marks vest. Trained in Scotland etc etc.

I am sooooo happy....and bracing myself for the expected delay through Canadian Customs when the time to reship comes....

Ron

**The Wizard of BC** · 16th September 05, 05:27 PM

This afternoon around 5:00 the X Marks Tartan fabric arrived at the shop.

You guys are gonna love this.

With the addition of the gray fibers, the look is muted and soft looking. I was very pleasantly suprised.

I also love the selvedge. It's almost perfect. Far better than any F&K sample I have ever seen.

I'll try to get some photos in the sun tomorrow and e-mail them to Hank so everyone can see them.

Tomorrow I have a rush kilt to finish so I won't be cutting the fabric until Monday, but seeing as there is no mail service in Canada on Saturday, I can't get anything out to you until then anyway.

I'll get the paypal adjustments to everyone this weekend.

Boy, is Barb's book is going to get a workout.