Few things as I read this thread... Barb's book is a moderate help in making a modern kilt. Some pleating techniques, some troubleshooting techniques... but it's more geared on how to hand-sew a traditional.

You're gonna want a large hidden pleat, it helps with a curling apron. I need to fix one of my kilts that curls.

If you intend to sew in the pleats so you dont need to iron it, IRON THE PLEATS FIRST.

I did that with my first kilt, and it worked great. I got lazy and didnt iron it for the second, and my lines were off andhad to rip a bunch of seams and re-sew them.

When you measure your hips, measure them, THEN SIT DOWN. I learned that from Rocky's website I believe. My first kilt is tight and the pleats pull when I sit. The second I made fits perfect when sitting. If your fabric doesnt stretch, as canvas doesnt, you're gonna be in trouble.

Some cotton canvas shrink like hell. 4 yards shrinking and losing 16 inches sounds about right to me.

Um thats all I got. I'll have to post pics of my homemade kilts soon.