One more question about the Montrose doublet

[Hamish]

I've got one more question about the Montrose doublet. I'm working on modifying a pattern to make it fully double breasted, but I'm not sure about the length. I had thought that the kilt was strapped on over the doublet, but I just saw a couple pictures that look like the doublet is worn over the kilt (there was a telltale bit of fabric peeking out from under the belt.) Which is correct? I haven't cut out the material yet (got 100% linen for the lining! Hooray!), so I can still alter the length.

Nick, as Moosehead says, the doublet is worn over the kilt, but I am not sure what he means by it being "very short in front" - it is short all the way round! In fact, the bottom of the doublet should cover the top of the kilt at all points so that the dress belt, when worn through the loops on the outside of the doublet, is in the same position as it would be if worn on the kilt. My 1965 Montrose came as standard with two elasticated hooks which hung from the inside at the back and which linked into two corresponding loops sewn inside the top of the kilt. These helped the doublet return to its proper position if the wearer raised his arms - as in Highland Dancing. But, for normal formal wear, these might not be necessary.