Revisions for The Art of Kiltmaking

**Paul Henry** · 30th October 06, 07:25 AM

without meaning to hijack this thread.... but a note for Heath... be very careful about using "strong" thread for basting, one of the reasons for using cotton is that it is more likely to break than the actual fabric, when the basting is removed soft thread is much kinder

**mddock58** · 30th October 06, 07:43 AM

Barb,
Remember to add the pics of you hand stitching the fell! I remember how much that helped those that couldn't quite picture it!

**HeathBar** · 30th October 06, 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by paulhenry

without meaning to hijack this thread.... but a note for Heath... be very careful about using "strong" thread for basting, one of the reasons for using cotton is that it is more likely to break than the actual fabric, when the basting is removed soft thread is much kinder

The real problem I had with the cotton thread was that it was unraveling while I was basting and it was bucnhing up as I pulled it through the material. This also made it harder to remove. I also had to use shorter pieces which was a PITA.

**Barb T** · 30th October 06, 10:53 AM

If the thread unravelled and bunched as you pulled it through the fabric, you were using something called "Dual Duty" or cotton-wrapped polyester. It is a nightmare to use, because the cotton wears off the polyester core and makes little slubby bits that get caught in the fabric. Steer clear of it!!

I just buy the cheapest 100% polyester (not cotton-wrapped) thread I can find for basting. It's easy to be ambushed by cheap cotton-wrapped polyester, though. Check first!!

Barb

**Colin** · 30th October 06, 11:42 AM

Being a beginner at sewing, the only issue I really had when doing an initial read through of the book was when certain types of stiches were referenced. I found the guide later, but not until I had skimmed throught the process. I have used the book to make a kilt for a one year old, but I think that I am going to do a beginners sewing class before I try the 13oz wool i have sitting around. I am using the prinicpals of the book for a kilt in plain grey wool for a neighbor. I have just started, but once I get the math sorted, it should go quicker. The only other issue I had at times was finding the list of needed materials. This was only because the fabric shop closest to my home wa slimited in it's resources. I couldn't find a good thimble that fit my fingers or thumb, so I had a bunch of little pin pricks last week.

Despite any issues I have experienced at this point as a total beginner, the book is very well set up for a beginner kiltmaker. There are several online guides on how to make an inexpensive version of a kilt, but these are usually lacking the charcteristics that are known with a kilt (ie. the fell, sew down pleats, tapering the apron, etc). The Art of Kiltmaking lays it out very neatly and walks you through the process. I had no idea how much effort had to go into making a traditional Scottish kilt. I would suggest the book to people that are even just considering buying a kilt, as it answers alot of the questions in terms of measurement, pleating (sett or stripe), and how a properly made kilt should look. I know the book was helpful in increasing my knowledge of the design and process of kiltmaking, which helped when I ordered my first handsewn kilt from Scotland.

I will comment further when I get further down the process. I have to get past a move (work and parent's home), my wife's birthday, halloween, and my birthday in the next 2 weeks.

**Barb T** · 30th October 06, 02:09 PM

Originally Posted by Colin

I couldn't find a good thimble that fit my fingers or thumb, so I had a bunch of little pin pricks last week.

It's hard to find a good thimble but very easy to make one. Here's a thread from earlier that shows how:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=18607

Barb

**Colin** · 30th October 06, 03:10 PM

Thanks Barb.

By the way, the photos and the diagrams have been the most helpful thing in the book. The text is really useful, but in any moment of confusion, the diagrams and the photos become a great reference point to bring me back to center.

**MacWage** · 30th October 06, 07:05 PM

Barb,

GREAT book!!!! I have refered MANY to it.

The main suggestion I have found is a bit more on the steeking. As I think (unless my memory has it mis-identified) that problems with steeking, or the lack of it, is one of the main reasons that the book came into existance.

Also (minor), a bit more on the typesof stitches and how to do them. A "kilt stitches for sewing dummies" section, because many of those that buy the book are, like me, newbies to sewing and have NO IDEA what most of the stitch types even are, much less HOW to do them.

(You asked, so I am giving some ideas)
All in all, a GREAT book that will only get BETTER!!!!

**HeathBar** · 30th October 06, 07:35 PM

Originally Posted by Barb T.

If the thread unravelled and bunched as you pulled it through the fabric, you were using something called "Dual Duty" or cotton-wrapped polyester. It is a nightmare to use, because the cotton wears off the polyester core and makes little slubby bits that get caught in the fabric. Steer clear of it!!
Barb

I went back and checked and you're right it says right on the label, Dual Duty.
I guess at the time, I didn't know that much about the different types of thread.

**MacWage** · 31st October 06, 04:35 AM

Originally Posted by HeathBar

I went back and checked and you're right it says right on the label, Dual Duty.
I guess at the time, I didn't know that much about the different types of thread.

Sounds like a good Mini-section in a "basic sewing for dummies." Sould be covered in a few sentances.