Alan, I share your problems with the sewing of the kilt. Barb gives specific directions on how to do it properly, but some of us guys can't quite do it her way. I'm still struggling with an alternate way of making sure "the waives" don't happen. My last attempt has gotten much better. Stretching the tartan and using Barb’s suggestion about off-setting the tartan to compensate for the way one sews is really helpful.
I hope someone can give a good suggestion about alternative ways to sew.